Walking and Trekking in the Gran Paradiso. Gillian Price
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route is consistently marked with the symbol of a black-edged yellow triangle around the number ‘2’. The going is generally straightforward, suitable for almost every walker, although there is the odd stretch of unusually steep or exposed terrain rated Grade 3 (Stages 5, 7 and 9). Each stage would be suitable as an individual walk and could be easily be adapted for a day excursion.
You could also walk the AV2 in reverse, although that would mean – alas! – missing the thrill of the Mont Blanc conclusion. An approximate timing for walking in the opposite direction is given at the beginning of each stage description.
Two optional opening stages for the AV2 have now been added, doubling as a link with the wilder Alta Via 1 that crosses the northern reaches of the Valle d’Aosta. Starting out at Donnas, on the main valley floor, the way climbs via Crest (overnight stay at the dortoir, open May–Oct, tel 328 0514516, [email protected]. Meals at the local restaurant a short walk away unless you self cater) to Champorcher. See www.lovevda.it and go to the Alta Via n. 2 page.
Bridge crossing en route to Rifugio Vittorio Sella (AV2 stage 4)
Glorious Mont Blanc (AV stage 12)
Three-day extension: If you have three more days to spare, an extension to the AV2 is warmly recommended to include an exploration of the spectacular snow-and ice-bound upper southernmost parts of Valsavarenche, Val di Rhêmes and Valgrisenche. Leave the official AV2 route at Eaux Rousses (at the end of Stage 5) for Pont (summer bus or 5km by road). Then follow Walk 12 to Pian del Nivolet and on to Col Rosset and Rifugio Benevolo (Walk 15). After this, follow Walk 17 via Col Bassac Déré to Rifugio Bezzi and down towards Uselères, where there is a link to Rifugio Chalet de l'Epée to resume the AV2 at Stage 8.
Getting to the start: Coaches and slow Ivrea-Aosta trains stop at Hône-Bard in Valle d'Aosta. Year-round buses run up the Valle di Champorcher to Chardonney from the small square near the railway station, in the shadow of the fortress.
STAGE 1
Chardonney to Rifugio Dondena
| Start | Chardonney |
| Distance | 5.8km/3.6 miles |
| Total Ascent | 738m |
| Grade | 1–2 |
| Time | 2h45 (opposite direction 2h) |
| Maps | IGC sheet 3, 1:50,000 |
The Alta Via 2 begins amid the beautiful alpine landscapes of Valle di Champorcher. The close-knit local community, with its time-honoured traditions, is descended from herdsmen-settlers from Valle Soana to the south. Two picturesque stories account for the curious name Champorcher: the first concerns San Porciero, a Roman legionary and companion of San Besso (see Walk 27) said to have taken refuge in AD302 near Lago Miserin (Stage 2), where he was inspired to begin preaching. A second story attributes the origin of the name to the pigs once bred in the valley on the fruit of the oak and beech trees that then died out after a dramatic temperature drop in the 16th and 17th centuries.
The starting point of Chardonney (nothing to do with the grape but a reference to ‘agglomeration of thistles’) has grocery shops where you can stock up on sargnun, a tasty cheese (object of the ‘fêta d'i sargnun’ village festival held late September) which comes fresh, salted or smoked. It is consumed with pane nero, the local rye-bread, these days likely to be freshly baked rather than rock hard according to tradition. It used to be baked only twice a year, leading to the invention of those wooden bread boards with a built-in chopper which you will see on display. A handful of hotels operate (such as Hotel Chardoney tel 0125 376011 www.hotel-chardoney.com).
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