Walking and Trekking in the Gran Paradiso. Gillian Price
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sightings are now a frequent occurrence. Otherwise an impressive stuffed specimen is on display at the Chavaney (Val di Rhêmes) Park Visitor Centre.
Other fascinating spectacles are offered by brilliant clouds of butterflies which vie for supremacy in brightness – notably the metallic hues of the common blue Icarus butterfly which passing walkers cause to flutter up from their puddles. Perching on a thistle, you may also find the rare Red Apollo, pale grey-cream but with trademark black and red ‘eyes’ on its wings.
Last but not least, mention must be made of the so-called glacier flea, large numbers of which form widespread dark patches on the surface of glaciers and snow fields up to 3800m. It is one to two millimetres long, hairy or scaly, mottled brown and feeds on organic matter such as pollen carried up by the wind. Alternatively red-tinted snow may either mean sand from a far-off desert, incredible though it may seem, or cold-loving algae with a blood-red colouring.
Vegetation
An excellent place to begin admiring the remarkable array of alpine plants is the attractive 10,000m2 Giardino Botanico Alpino ‘Paradisia’ in Valnontey, established in 1955 and named after the St Bruno lily Paradisia liliastrum. Over the summer 1000 labelled alpine species flourish there and of these a good 250 are found wild in the park.
The relatively limited woods are composed mainly of mixed conifer, dominated by larch and Arolla pine on the upper edge, along with juniper shrubs. Common are curious dwarf versions of trees such as the net-leaved willow and ice-age relict dwarf birch. Larch woods also share their habitat with alpenrose shrubs and their pretty pink blooms, as well as wine-red martagon lilies and the minute flowers produced by bilberry and cowberry plants, in preparation for their late-summer fruit.
Edelweiss
The star of the park's flowers is the record-holding glacier crowfoot, which grows at heights of up to 4200m. Also at high altitudes, colonisers of screes and bare rock, such as lilac round-leaved penny-cress and sturdy saxifrage (‘rock breaker’) penetrate cracks and fragment the stone. Moving downwards a little, stunning carpets of white ranunculus and pasque flowers cover high pasture basins such as the Piano del Nivolet. Marshland is often punctuated with soft white cotton grass and tiny carnivorous butterworts, the blue-violet common variety or yellow-white alpine type. The famous edelweiss is relatively unusual due to a lack of the calcareous terrain it requires, but another ice-age relict, the delicate and rare twinflower, grows in several valleys on open grassland. Elegant orchids are widespread in meadows. The dark reddish-brown black vanilla variety has a surprisingly strong cocoa aroma close-up.
Martagon lily
Round-leaved penny cress on scree
Purple orchid
The alpine environment is extremely hostile to life in general and the season for high-altitude vegetation can be as short as 60 to 70 days, including growth and reproduction. Each species has developed survival techniques, ranging from thick hairy layers as protection from cold winds and evaporation (edelweiss), antifreeze in its leaves (glacier crowfoot), as well as ground-hugging forms that minimise exposure, allow the plant to exploit the heat from the earth and ensure protective snow cover (cushions of rock jasmine). In addition to the beating they get from the elements, many also risk being nibbled by chamois (especially attracted to large-flowered leopard's-bane for its sugar content) and marmots (who go for forget-me-nots) and even thought-less picking by humans.
To end on a ‘spiritual’ note, a quick mention is in order for the insignificant-looking but strongly aromatic flower of the yellow genipi, found on stony grassland. Although it is rather rare and protected, local inhabitants are permitted to gather a limited number to prepare their beloved Genepì – a perfect after-dinner drink with guaranteed digestive properties to boot.
A recommended rucksack companion for flower lovers is the Cicerone pocket guide Alpine Flowers (2014), while Grey-Wilson and Blamey's Alpine Flowers of Britain and Europe (Harper Collins, 1995) is the perfect reference book at home.
Local traditions
It is worth mentioning the kaleidoscope of cultural events on offer in the region. In addition to the numerous castles in the main Valle d'Aosta, the most characteristic tourist attractions are the unusual ‘Battailles des Reines’. Probably traceable back to prehistoric times, they involve two enormous pregnant cows engaged in (bloodless) battle, for the honour of being decorated ‘Queen’. Each competitor has already established herself as best milker-cum-battler at the head of a herd. Emotional local tournaments involving entire villages start in March and the grand finale is the Regiona Championship held late October in Aosta. Copies of the ‘calendrier des combats’ (open to all) are available from tourist offices. The practice is also extended to goats with the ‘Bataille des Tzevres’ held in Valgrisenche in September.
Otherwise long processions to high altitude sanctuaries are a favourite midsummer activity. Popular local events with a legendary or religious origin, they attract huge crowds, often emigrants who return every year for the occasion. Worthy of mention are the Notre Dame des Neiges procession to Lago Miserin (5 August), the mammoth San Besso celebrations at Campiglia Soana (19 August) and ‘Lo Patron de Sen Grat’ (5 September), which are all mentioned in the descriptions of the individual walks.
Further suggestions
Walkers concluding the Alta Via 2 at Courmayeur will doubtless be extremely fit (if not utterly exhausted) and may like to proceed around the Mont Blanc massif on the popular TMB – see Kev Reynolds' Tour of Mont Blanc (Cicerone, 2007).
The mammoth Grande Traversata delle Alpi (GTA), the 46-day hike across Piemonte, also touches the Gran Paradiso and can be picked up in Valle dell'Orco or Soana – see Through the Italian Alps by Gillian Price (Cicerone, 2005).
Leading up to Col Lauson (AV2 stage 5)
ALTA VIA 2
This exhilarating long-distance route cuts its strenuous way across the rugged southern flanks of the Valle d'Aosta, unimaginable worlds away from the busy traffic artery.
Heading due south from the main valley a succession of formidable ravine-like valleys gouged out by the impetuous passage of water lead between soaring ridges. They terminate abruptly, almost surprisingly in open pasture basins, havens of tranquillity and home to man and livestock alike. It is the task of the Alta Via 2 to traverse these high parallel barriers one by one. Originating just outside the eastern edge of the Gran Paradiso National Park, the AV2 offers 12 memorable, energy-packed days on a roller-coaster walk through the heart of the protected area, touching on well-established settlements in Vallon di Cogne, Valsavarenche and Val di Rhêmes, then on to Valgrisenche, Valle de la Thuile and Val Vény. It also offers views of some magnificent peaks – the Grivola, Herbetet and Ruitor for starters and the massive Gran Paradiso in the distance. Europe's sovereign Mont Blanc – Monte Bianco for the Italians – provides the breathtaking finale to the trek.
As if the AV2 needed any more to recommed it, the route is relatively untrodden, making for sublime solitary days after which all effort is amply rewarded with warming meals in well-run mountain huts and cosy village guesthouses. The 12 stages are split equally between high altitude huts and valley hotels to keep everyone happy. This also means that picnic supplies can be replenished at shops on a fairly regular basis. Only one day – Stage 9 – concludes at an unmanned hut, but a short extension to the route links in a comfortable B&B. For each stage, we have given a selection of accommodation in the villages but more options can be found on the websites of the relevant tourist offices (see ‘Information’