Walking and Trekking in the Gran Paradiso. Gillian Price
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1 Chardonney to Rifugio Dondena
Stage 2 Rifugio Dondena to Rifugio Péradzà
Stage 3 Rifugio Péradzà to Cogne
Stage 4 Cogne to Rifugio Vittorio Sella
Stage 5 Rifugio Vittorio Sella to Eaux Rousses
Stage 6 Eaux Rousses to Rhêmes-Notre-Dame
Stage 7 Rhêmes-Notre-Dame to Rifugio Chalet de l'Epée
Stage 8 Rifugio Chalet de l'Epée to Planaval
Stage 9 Planaval to La Haut
Stage 10 La Haut to La Thuile
Stage 11 La Thuile to Rifugio Elisabetta Soldini
Stage 12 Rifugio Elisabetta Soldini to Courmayeur
1 The Lillaz Waterfalls
2 Lago di Loie
3 The Money Glacier Terrace
4 The Casolari dell'Herbetet Traverse
5 Punta Pousset – the local ‘Gornergrat’
6 Beneath the Grivola
7 Passo d'Invergneux and the Mines Circuit
8 Laghi di Lussert
9 Pondel's Roman Bridge
10 The 2205m Mont Blanc
11 At the Foot of the Gran Paradiso
12 Over Gran Collet to Col del Nivolet
13 The King's Path in Valle delle Meyes
14 Vallon di Sort
15 Col Rosset
16 Punta Basei
17 Becca della Traversière
18 Legendary San Grato
19 Becca dei Quattro Denti
20 The Royal Track to Ceresole Reale
21 Sentiero Glaciologico Lago Serrù
22 Beneath the Tre Levanne
23 The Villages of Valle dell'Orco
24 Beyond the Dam in Vallone di Piantonetto
25 Nivolastro to Andorina
26 Frescoes and Fridges en route to Bivacco Davito
27 Sanctuary of San Besso
28 Col Larissa
Appendix A Italian-English Glossary
Appendix B Route Summary Table
From Col del Nivolet the Tre Levanne rise beyond Lago Agner and Serru (Walk 22)
Looking down onto Lac du Glacier (AV2 stage 10)
INTRODUCTION
The Gran Paradiso National Park
‘Intending visitors to the district should be warned that when the King of Italy is hunting around Cogne (the present King has not been there since 1885) they may find their movements impeded by fear of disturbing the game. This will seem however but a small hindrance when set against the great facilities which the royal hunting paths (passable for horses) afford to travellers on the less interesting portions of many of the ascents in this group.’
This introduction appeared a little over one hundred years ago in The Mountains of Cogne, one of the first guides to be published on the area. It was the work of alpine pioneers George Yeld and Reverend WAB Coolidge. In 1856 King Vittorio Emanuele II had unified several hunting grounds and declared a Royal Game Reserve. The move followed rulings in 1821 that prohibited hunting – except by royal entourages – in order to protect the ibex and chamois populations, which had fallen to wor-ryingly low levels.
Ibex in particular had been hunted intensely since medieval times. They were considered to be ‘walking pharmacies’ as their blood, horns, bones and even their droppings were used in remedies for everything from poisoning to rheumatism. A special talisman was even made of the tiny cross-shaped bone found in its heart, believed to guard the wearer against violent death.
Not only did the ban on hunting encourage growth in both the ibex and chamois populations, it also guaranteed their survival as these were the only such populations in the Alps. After World War I, in 1922, Vittorio Emanuele III, grandson of the ‘Hunter King’, renounced his hunting rights and had the area declared Italy's very first national park ‘for the purpose of protecting the fauna and flora, and preserving the special geological formations, as well as the beauty of the scenery’.
The Gran Paradiso sits in the Valle d'Aosta, in northwestern Italy, a marvellous region of magical mountains and rugged desolate valleys, verging on pristine wilderness. It is a mere alpine chough's flight from the Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa and Matterhorn ranges, landmark giants that can be seen from the many scenic passes and lookouts visited during this guide. Despite its attractions, the park is relatively undiscovered. Walkers can often enjoy unforgettable days on excellent trails through spectacular valleys that they have all to themselves, even at the height of the summer season.
Ibex at rest below the Gran Paradiso
The curious and romantic name Gran Paradiso goes back much further than the kings. While most experts say that the name Gran Paradiso, referring to the 4061m peak itself, is a contortion of ‘granta parei’ or ‘great wall’, some say that it comes from the presence of so many saints at the head of Valnontey – the peaks of San Pietro, San Andrea and Sant'Orso – and despite the nearby Punta dell'Inferno (Hell Point) and Testa della Tribolazione (Tribulation Peak).
Walks and treks
In the mid-1800s around 350km of wide tracks were constructed at the king's expense, along with five hunting lodges and mountain huts, manned by a veritable army of gamekeepers (converted poachers), beaters and porters. A total of 470km signed paths are now on offer – a good few summers' walking! Altitudes range from a thousand metres above sea level to over 3000 metres in permanent snow. In between are strolls across flowered meadows and conifer woods, steep heart-testing climbs over rough unstable terrain (inevitably followed by knee-knocking descents) and even cool snowfield traverses.
There is plenty of variety and there are options for any legs or lungs. Do remember that the further you venture away from ‘civilisation’ and the valley floors, the wilder and more exciting the scenery becomes and the fewer two-legged visitors you are likely to meet. Rewarding holidays can be had by basing yourself at a comfortable village hotel or campsite and taking day walks out in different directions. On the other hand, long-distance walkers with an adventurous bent can embark on the superb 12-day Alta Via 2 described at the beginning of the