BKLN Manners. Kate Naito
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or it might take several more repetitions until you can get four correct responses in a row. Regardless, four-for-four will tell you that your dog really gets it, at which point you can proceed to Level 2 and practice at that level until you get four correct responses in a row. This is how you prevent yourself from pushing the dog too far too fast, which would put him under the same stress as a Japanese language student who can’t keep up.
To illustrate, if you’re practicing Place with Distance from Chapter 3, which teaches the dog to go to his bed and remain there, you would start by getting four-for-four while you stand next to the bed. This means repeating the same cue from the same short distance as many times as needed until your dog correctly goes to his bed four times in a row. Once you have those four correct responses, take one small sidestep away from the bed and cue the dog to his “place.” Now you’re at a more difficult level because you’re farther from the bed, so you’ll need to practice at this distance as many times as needed until your dog gets four correct responses in a row. Once you have four-for-four at that distance, take another small step away, get another four-for-four, and so forth.
Four-for-four is intended to prevent you, the handler, from advancing levels too quickly, and it works well for the majority of dogs. I should mention, though, that not all dogs require four-for-four to achieve success at a particular level. In fact, a few dogs may actually get bored by the second or third correct response, and if the difficulty doesn’t increase, they will lose focus. It’s fine to modify your training plan for a dog who only needs two-for-two or three-for-three.
The purpose of four-for-four is that you will never push your dog beyond his limits. Still, you might reach a point where, after practicing several sequences of a ten-step Heel, it becomes clear that your dog simply cannot get four-for-four correct. If this happens, it’s time to either lower the criteria or take a break, depending on how you and your dog are feeling. For dogs and humans alike, it’s frustrating to be asked to perform a task again and again without success. If your dog’s head is still in the game, do one five-step Heel and call it quits for a few hours. If you think even a five-step Heel is asking too much, just take a break immediately. Your dog’s success at Heel will be the product of repeated practice sessions over several weeks, so there is no need to push it when your dog’s brain is already fried on one particular day.
The Clicker Conundrum
I’m frequently asked, “Do I need a clicker to train my dog?” The answer, for better or worse, is, “It depends.” A clicker simply provides a clear way to mark a dog’s correct behavior; that is, you click the moment the dog does what you’re asking. If you’re teaching your dog to give you his paw, you would click the moment his paw touches your hand. In theory, it is no different from saying “Yes” to mark the correct behavior, but clickers have certain advantages:
A clicker provides a unique, consistent sound. This gives the dog very clear feedback, compared to your voice, which fluctuates. (Think of all the different ways you could say “Yes!”)
Some owners have better timing with clickers than their voices.
The clicking sound can motivate dogs to work harder, and it can help some to focus on the task. It’s as if the dog gets excited to win more “clicks.”
Because of the reasons above, clicker training is useful for shaping difficult behaviors by breaking them down into smaller steps. For example, if teaching a high five, you could first click a little paw lift, then a slightly higher paw lift, and so on.
Clickers also have some disadvantages:
You have one more tool to hold. While there are many variations, including ones that slip on your finger like a ring, you’re still carrying one more piece of equipment.
Some dogs are afraid of the clicking sound. This doesn’t mean you can’t clicker train, but you might need to purchase a quiet clicker or condition the dog to muffled clicking sounds at first.
Poor clicker timing can be more confusing for the dog than an ill-timed verbal marker. Occasionally an owner needs to practice clicker timing before introducing it to a dog.
Some kids can’t keep their hands off of the clicker. There is no point in using a clicker if a family member routinely uses it for anything other than training.
Once your dog fully understands how to, say, high five, you no longer need the clicker. Determining when to stop clicking for a certain behavior can be confusing for some people.
Ultimately, the choice is yours. I tend to use clickers with Doggie Academy clients who are interested in the training process or who plan to do higher level activities such as trick training or freestyle (described in Chapter 8). I also often use clicker training with distractible or reactive dogs because the sound is clearer than a verbal marker, which makes training a little easier and faster.
Distractions
The most successful trainers, whether amateur or professional, are the ones who can leave their frustrations aside while training. Imagine if your third-grade teacher huffed and puffed every time you misspelled a word. Would it make you learn to spell any faster? When a dog misbehaves or doesn’t follow your cue, it’s never personal. Generally, the dog either does not understand your cue (perhaps because you didn’t do four-for-four), or you are in a situation with excessive distractions. Both of these situations can be easily remedied with methodical training.
Always set your dog up for success when teaching a new behavior. Start training new things in a setting with no distractions, such as in a quiet room. I consider this the preschool level for your dog, because it should be like a game: easy and fun. As your dog is successful at each level, he can move up a “grade,” which means you can gradually increase the level of distractions while training. For instance, when I teach a dog polite leash walking, the progress looks something like this:
1 Preschool: Start inside your home and use lots of treats to reward polite walking until the dog really understands it.
2 Kindergarten: Still indoors, gradually reduce the number of treat rewards.
3 Elementary school: Go to a low-distraction outdoor area (a backyard or side street at the most quiet time of day) and use lots of treats to reward polite walking until the dog really understands it.
4 Middle school: Still in a low-distraction outdoor area, gradually reduce the number of treat rewards.
5 Junior high: Go to a somewhat higher distraction outdoor area, like a side street at a busy time, and use lots of treats to reward polite walking until the dog really understands it.
Gradually increase the distractions until you reach PhD level, which might be a train station or bustling urban area. You’ll find that, even though you’re starting from scratch by using more treats for each new level of distraction, your dog will be able to progress quickly. By working up to higher distractions methodically, you’ll never overwhelm your dog. In the process, you’ll also fine-tune your communication and enhance your bond with him. Therefore, training actually goes much faster when you stick to the plan and avoid skipping steps because your dog “gets it” and has fun each step of the way.
How to Find a Trainer
In the subsequent chapters, I will provide suggestions for when to contact a trainer rather than try to work through your dog’s issue yourself. There are many excellent dog trainers out there, but because dog training is an unregulated profession in which anyone can call him- or herself a trainer, you need to choose carefully. Personally, I’m big on certifications because they show a professional’s commitment to the field and willingness to participate in the continuing-education requirements that are required to maintain certification. But not all certificates are created equal.
There are few things to look for to ensure that a trainer is trustworthy and qualified. If you see CPDT-KA or CPDT-KSA after the trainer’s