Sierra South. Mike White
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skirts a hillside and drops into Earthquake Meadow, where there is a nice, spring-fed stream but very poor camping. The trail meets an unmaintained lateral route to Snake Meadow; stay on the main trail (southeast) to Corral Meadow (originally known as 77 Corral after a drought in 1877 forced shepherds to seek higher, wilder grazing lands).
In just over a mile, reach the west fork of Cargyle Creek (campsites); once past its drainage, there is evidence of a 2003 fire. The trail can be hard to follow here, but continue east-southeast to stay on track to a signed junction at Corral Meadow: left (north) to Iron Lake; right (southwest) to Clover Meadow and the trailhead; ahead (east) on the eastbound Mammoth Trail, crossing small streams to reach well-established campsites on the southeast side of the meadow (7982’; 11S 308225 4160840).
Hemlock Crossing on the North Fork San Joaquin River
DAY 4 (Corral Meadow to Granite Creek Campground Trailhead, 9 miles): Plan to get an early start: Today’s hike involves a grueling descent to a bridge over North Fork San Joaquin and then a hot climb back up to the road, which you follow back to Granite Creek Campground Trailhead.
Retrace your steps to the last junction and turn left (southwest) onto the westbound historic Mammoth Trail, a toll route that brought supplies from Fresno Flats (Oakhurst) to the eastside mining camps around Mammoth Lakes back in the 1870s and ‘80s.
From here, it’s down, down, down. Cross Cargyle Creek before meeting the Earthquake Meadow lateral at Snake Meadow; go ahead (southwest) here toward Sheep Crossing. The trail switchbacks steeply westward down toward the river, bypassing a faint spur trail left (south). Continue the westward (toward the river) descent; as the switchbacks end, the trail swings north toward the steel bridge at Sheep Crossing. Rest and get water at Sheep Crossing before tackling the short but steep, mile-plus climb to Indian Meadow.
SHUTTLE OPTION FOR TRIP 3
Notice that there’s a road east from Granite Creek Campground 3 miles to the Mammoth Trailhead, at Indian Meadow. You could cut those 3 dusty miles off Trip 3’s last, tough day by staging a shuttle car there.
On the west side of the river, the trail turns south, climbing above the river a short distance before curving southwest and then switchbacking steeply up the river canyon’s west wall to a roadend, the Mammoth Trailhead, at Indian Meadow. If you’ve dropped a car at this roadend (see sidebar above to learn how to make this trip a shuttle), your trip is over. Otherwise, follow this dusty road generally west for 3 more miles back to Granite Creek Campground Trailhead (6978’; 11S 29955 4157469); stay on the road at all junctions.
TRANS-SIERRA HIKE
For an easy trans-Sierra hike, from Corral Meadow, go east on the eastbound Mammoth Trail over East Fork Cargyle Creek and a tributary and then through beautiful Cargyle Meadow (once a popular meeting and trading place for Native American tribes from the east and west sides of the Sierra). Climb to Stairway Meadow and the Granite Stairway (neither granite, nor a stairway, oddly) to enter Inyo National Forest. Pass by Summit Meadow (not a meadow, and not at a summit) as the trail descends into Snow Canyon. At a junction with the trail to Fern and Beck lakes (good camping at Fern Lake), go ahead (northeast) to begin a pumice-y, rocky descent with great views over the Middle Fork San Joaquin River drainage.
At the bottom of the descent, ford King Creek (campsite) and curve northeast around a low ridge to reach a junction with the north-south PCT/JMT and with a spur trail ahead (north-northeast) to a junction on the riverbank. Go ahead to the riverbank junction. Turn right (briefly south and then east) over the river on a footbridge toward the Devils Postpile Trailhead. Across the river, find another junction: left (north) a quarter mile to the trailhead; right (south) to see the Postpile itself in just a few yards (why not?). See the Devils Postpile section (trips 42 and 43) for driving directions for setting up the shuttle and for more information about the area.
STATE HIGHWAY 168 WEST SIDE TRIPS
Wishon Reservoir—Woodchuck Trailhead 6670’; 11S 325266 4096222
Information and Permits: This trailhead is in Sierra National Forest: 1600 Tollhouse Road, Clovis, CA 93611, 559-297-0706, www.fs.fed.us/r5/sierra/. Permits are required for overnight stays, and quotas apply; reserved permits and on-demand permits are available.
Driving Directions: From Clovis (near Fresno), take Hwy. 168 42 miles northeast to the resort town of Shaver Lake. Turn right (generally east) onto Dinkey Creek Road and follow it 26 miles to the Courtright/Wishon Y. Take the right fork south to Wishon Reservoir, 4 more miles south. Wishon Reservoir’s Woodchuck Trailhead is located immediately across the dam on the left side (east) of the road.
4 Halfmoon Lake
Trip Data: 11S 335355 4102079; 26 miles; 4/1 days
Topos: Rough Spur, Courtright Reservoir, Blackcap Mtn.
Highlights: Halfmoon Lake is set in an amphitheater of granite walls sculpted by vanished rivers of ice. Its shallow basin and lower elevation create relatively warm water temperatures. Head for Halfmoon Lake via Woodchuck Lake and then make a semiloop on the return via Chimney Lake.
DAY 1 (Woodchuck Trailhead to Woodchuck Lake, 8 miles): From the Woodchuck Trailhead, the trail climbs nearly 400 feet before curving east and briefly joining a dirt road. Step onto the dirt road and turn south (right) to follow the road 30 feet to a signed junction. At this junction, take the trail branching left (southeast) and continue climbing.
From the junction, the trail climbs steeply 500 feet before it swings north and begins a scenic traverse high on the forested ridge east of Wishon Reservoir. The trail undulates under dense stands of incense-cedar, white fir, and sugar pine (the latter easily identified by its large cones and its five needles per bundle), and past shallow gullies where the vegetation dramatically changes to a lush understory of bracken fern, lupine, gooseberry, columbine, and mugwort.
After nearly 2 miles, the trail turns east, swapping views of Wishon Reservoir for views north toward Lost Peak (8476’) and other granitic domes. The trail tops a moraine, a mass of rock debris left behind by vanished glaciers, before it descends into Woodchuck Creek’s canyon. At this point, you may hear the Helms Project Powerhouse, across the North Fork Kings River’s canyon to the north.
Beyond an aspen-studded meadow, the trail curves north and descends to ford Woodchuck Creek (may be difficult in early season). From the ford, the trail ascends north under higher elevation species of red fir and lodgepole pine and then bears east to switchback 500 feet over a minor ridge hosting a campsite. From the ridge, enjoy views west toward Woodchuck Creek’s canyon. Very quickly, the trail meets a signed junction (8510’) with a trail to Chuck Pass (right; south-southeast).
Today’s route turns left (northeast) toward Crown Pass and crosses several branches of an unnamed creek via three log bridges. Curving north again, the trail makes a short but steep ascent over another moraine to the south end of a lush meadow. Follow the track across the meadow to Moore Boys Camp (8710’), 6 miles from the trailhead and on the far side of the meadow. Fishing is poor for brook trout, and mosquitoes are voracious until late summer.
Just beyond Moore