Sierra South. Mike White
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From this signed junction, continue east (straight ahead), leaving the open flats of the meadow. The hike climbs steadily up the southern slopes of the glacially polished, narrowing walls of the Kings River’s canyon, offering increasingly expansive views east-southeast toward Blackcap Basin. As the canyon narrows, the sounds of flowing water become more audible, and the path returns to the riverside. The gentle but steady ascent under the shade of a lodgepole pine forest traverses areas swept by avalanches, where vigorous willow thickets outcompete conifers. North Fork Kings River on your left (north)—sometimes near and sometimes far, sometimes meandering slowly through meadows and sometimes cascading past large granite slabs—contains a healthy population of golden, brook, and brown trout. Brisk and incredibly refreshing swimming holes scoured smooth by the crystalline river will rejuvenate weary hikers.
The trail briefly leaves the North Fork and climbs south toward Portal Lake to join its outlet stream. As the grade levels, the path leads to a picturesque and expansive meadow where a campsite marks the junction with the Crown Basin Trail (10,170’). Go left (southeast) toward Portal Lake; just beyond this campsite is the easy-to-miss ford (difficult during high water) of Portal Lake’s outlet. (Hikers have missed the ford and simply followed the granite slabs southeast toward Portal Lake.) Beyond the ford, the trail climbs via short switchbacks to the small, scenic campsites on the north shore of Portal Lake (10,340’; 11S 343726 4101161). If Portal Lake’s sites are full, continue northeast cross-country 0.2 mile to the banks of the neighboring unnamed lake (10,390’).
EXPLORING BLACKCAP AND CROWN BASINS
From Portal Lake, you can take several easily traversed cross-country routes into Blackcap Basin and Crown Basin:
To journey deeper into Blackcap Basin: Leave Portal Lake along the barren granite slabs northeast and follow gentle terrain before briefly ascending 200 feet south of the headwaters of North Fork Kings River as it cascades below Pearl Lake (10,631’). From Pearl Lake’s northwest finger, the easiest route climbs due north past a minor knoll and into the Division Lake Basin. From there, Regiment Lake (10,960’) and Battalion Lake (11,050’) can be reached by ascending the inlet cross-country upstream.
For Crown Basin: Follow the gentle, sloping ridge southwest above Portal Lake and continue along the open granite slabs south to several shallow unnamed lakes. From there, follow Crown Creek downstream to a small tributary that is fed by Hummingbird Lake (10,365’).
DAYS 4–6 (Blackcap Basin to Woodchuck Trailhead, 20.5 miles): Retrace your steps.
6 Crown Lake
Trip Data: 11S 33567 4100360; 25 miles; 4/1 days
Topos: Rough Spur, Courtright Reservoir, Blackcap Mtn.
Highlights: The broad, gentle terrain surrounding Crown Lake allows excursions off the beaten path in search of solitude. This trek provides the opportunity to commune peacefully along one of the finest series of meadows in the southern Sierra.
DAY 1 (Woodchuck Trailhead to Woodchuck Lake, 8 miles): (Recap: Trip 4, Day 1.) From the trailhead, the trail climbs nearly 400 feet, curves east, and joins a dirt road for 30 feet to a signed junction. Go left (southeast) and continue climbing steeply 500 feet, swing north, and begin a scenic traverse. After nearly 2 miles, the path turns east, tops a moraine, and then descends into Woodchuck Creek’s canyon. The trail curves north and descends to ford the creek (may be difficult in early season). From the ford, the path ascends north and then bears east to switchback 500 feet over a minor ridge. The route meets a signed junction (8510’) with a trail to Chuck Pass; note this junction for your return on Day 4.
Turn left (northeast) toward Crown Pass, ford multiple branches of a creek, and, curving north again, make a short but steep ascent over another moraine to the south end of a meadow. Follow the track across the meadow to Moore Boys Camp (8710’) and then a signed junction (8720’) with trails right (east-northeast) to Chimney Lake and Crown Pass and left (north-northeast) toward Woodchuck Lake. Turn left (northeast) toward Woodchuck Lake and cross a couple braids of Woodchuck Creek. After topping out at 9840 feet, the trail descends 0.1 mile into Woodchuck Lake’s basin (9812’; 11S 332701 4101144), where Day 1 ends.
DAY 2 (Woodchuck Lake to Crown Lake, 3.5 miles): Head for the lake’s south end, cross the eastern inlet, and enter the southern inlet’s meadow. The trail gradually ascends out of Woodchuck Lake’s basin and climbs 200 feet southward over the next mile before reaching a signed junction; take the left fork (northeast) to a minor saddle and descend past a shallow pond. The track then climbs 250 feet over the south shoulder of an unnamed peak above Crown Pass. As it descends, the trail reaches a junction (10,180’) a little before Crown Pass proper; turn right (south) toward Crown Lake.
From the junction, the trail descends steeply south 400 feet to the large, lodgepole-rimmed meadow of Crown Lake (9730’; 11S 33567 4100360). Viewed from the pass, the lake does have a crown-like shape, but its west side, containing several small pools, can be marshy and a haven for mosquitoes. Campsites are best on the east side of the lake, where the trail skirts along the southern slopes of the ridge above Crown Pass.
Surprise, Crown Lake is miles west of Crown Basin, and the lake’s outlet flows into Scepter Creek, which finally joins Crown Creek many miles southeast of here.
DAY 3 (Crown Lake to Indian Springs, 6 miles): The trail becomes somewhat indistinct as it crosses the southern marshlands below Crown Lake, but it is easy to locate along the east side of the unnamed outlet creek. Descend easily in moderate forest, at first lodgepole but later mixed with western white pine. Intermittent marshy patches interrupt the trail’s loose duff surface as the path descends gently south on the east side of this creek.
At a junction with the Scepter Lake Trail (9420’), go ahead (south) and then cross the creek. The trail’s faint tread swings west of Scepter Creek, so that it is out of sight and sound, but it returns to creekside at another meadow. Beyond this meadow, the route leads to another meadow and then continues south to a junction with the Chuck Pass Trail (9255’).
Turn right (west) on this level trail and soon ford the sandy-bottomed, unnamed stream that drains Chuck Pass. Climb moderately up the southwest side of the little creek. The string of forest-bordered meadows along the creek’s headwaters are, in the mountain springtime, narrow emerald ribbons interspersed with lush gardens—one of the finest series of meadows in the Sierra. After topping out at Chuck Pass (9540’), the rocky trail leads down through a park-like, spacious pine forest on a set of steep, dusty switchbacks. Soon, the route passes above a rocky, snag-strewn meadow, and then it descends to pass a series of sweeping green meadows, where the wildflower population boasts a tapestry of colors and aromas. Descending gently, the trail crosses a creek and skirts a large meadow. Soon you arrive at the attractive campsites at the west end of the meadow beside Indian Springs (8890’), between the trail and Woodchuck Creek.
DAY 4 (Indian Springs to Woodchuck Trailhead, 7.5 miles): The trail heads west down the valley of Woodchuck Creek, its tread often soft and muddy from the seepage of springs. It penetrates a dense forest of lodgepole pine and reaches a junction with the Hoffman Mountain Trail (8610’).
Turn right (north) and immediately pass the ruins of an old cabin at abandoned Lacy Camp. The sandy forest path then dips west to meet the Wishon/Halfmoon Lake Trail at the Chuck Pass/Crown Pass junction, where you turned toward Crown Pass on Day 1.
From here, turn left (ahead, west) and retrace your steps to the trailhead.
The trail tops out 250 feet above Crown Pass before