Sweet Hands: Island Cooking from Trinidad & Tobago, 3rd edition. Ramin Ganeshram
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15 to 20 minutes, or until the pumpkin/squash can be mashed easily.
4 Remove the pot from the heat, mash the pumpkin/squash until smooth, and return it to the heat. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Serve as a side dish with rice (page 160) or roti (pages 174-177).
SERVES: 4
If saltfish was brought to Trinidad by the Spanish and Portuguese, it’s most likely that smoked herring was brought by the English. This dish, which is similar to Buljol (page 29) served with Fry Bake (page 183), uses herring in place of saltfish and is served with boiled dumplings instead of fried bread.
¾ pound smoked herring fillets
2 teaspoons canola oil
1 small onion, chopped
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh chives
1 tablespoon finely chopped shado beni or cilantro leaves
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 large roma tomato, chopped
1 small red chili pepper, finely chopped (optional)
DUMPLINGS:
½ cup all-purpose flour
½ cup cornmeal
Pinch of coarse salt
1 Bring about 4 cups of water to a boil in a medium saucepan and add the herring fillets. Boil for 2 to 3 minutes and drain. Allow the fillets to cool and then finely shred. Set aside.
2 Make dumplings: Mix together the flour, cornmeal, and salt. Add 6 tablespoons of water and knead to form a stiff dough, adding more water if necessary. Knead until smooth and set aside to rest for 15 minutes. Pinch off 1-inch pieces of dough and roll between the palms of your hands to form ovals. Pinch both ends of the ovals, then flatten between palms or against a cutting board. The dumplings should resemble small flat footballs. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and add the dumplings. Simmer until dumplings float to the surface. Drain and set aside, keeping warm.
3 Heat a medium sauté pan and pour in the canola oil. Add the onion, chives, shado beni, and garlic and sauté for about 2 minutes, stirring often. Add the tomato and red chili pepper, if using, and mix well and cook 2 to 3 minutes more. Add the herring and fry for about 5 minutes.
4 To serve, divide the dumplings between four plates and put the smoked herring mixture on top, dividing evenly.
In Trinidad guests are usually treated to the most elaborate dishes a cook can make. As a result, much of the simple and delicious daily fare that is eaten at home is never experienced by the visitor. My good friend Gerard Ramsawak, manager of Pax Guest House in Tunapuna, is a faithful devotee to the notion that the skill of the cook and the quality of the ingredients are most clearly revealed in those dishes that seem most rudimentary—because there is little room for error. Among his favorites are these three egg dishes that are served not just at breakfast, but as a protein-rich meal any other time of the day as well.
SERVES: 4
2 teaspoons canola oil
½ small onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
¼ green Scotch bonnet pepper or other hot chili pepper, finely chopped
1 large tomato, chopped
8 large eggs, beaten
4 leaves shado beni or cilantro, chopped
1 Heat the canola oil in a medium saute pan and add the onion. When the onion is translucent, lower heat to medium-low and add the garlic and chili pepper and fry until garlic is golden brown.
2 Add the tomato and cook for 2 to 3 minutes or until the tomato is almost broken down.
3 Stir in the beaten eggs and allow to cook 1 minute or until the edges begin to set. Using a spatula, gently push in the edges of the eggs toward the middle of the pan and swirl the uncooked eggs onto the pan surface so they may cook too. Sprinkle the eggs with the shado beni and cook 1 minute more. Flip the omelet (it’s ok if it breaks into pieces when flipping) and cook another minute or two. Serve with Sadha Roti (page 176) or Plain Rice (page 160).
SERVES: 4
1 teaspoon canola oil
½ small onion, finely chopped
1 teaspoon butter
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
¼ green Scotch bonnet pepper or other hot chili pepper, finely chopped
8 large eggs, beaten
1 Heat the canola oil in a medium saute pan and add the onion. When the onion is translucent, add the butter and stir well until butter melts.
2 Lower heat to medium-low and add the garlic and chili pepper and fry until garlic is golden brown.
3 Add the beaten eggs and allow to cook 1 minute or until the edges begin to set. Using a spatula, gently push in the edges of the eggs toward the middle of the pan and swirl the uncooked eggs onto the pan surface and cook 1 minute more. Flip the omelet (it’s ok if the it breaks into pieces when flipping) and continue to cook another minute or two. Serve with Sadha Roti (page 176).
SERVES: 4
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 small onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tablespoon Trinidad curry powder (page 253)
4 medium yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
8 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and sliced in half lengthwise
1 Heat 1 tablespoon of the canola oil in a large, deep fry pan and add the onion. Cook until the onion is translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more. Stir in the curry powder and fry, stirring constantly, until the curry begins to release its aromas.
2 Add the potatoes and stir well, frying for 1 minute. Add 1 cup of water, mix well, and lower heat and simmer for 15 minutes.
3 While potatoes