Sweet Hands: Island Cooking from Trinidad & Tobago, 3rd edition. Ramin Ganeshram
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alt="T&T has a remarkable array of flora and fauna"/>
T&T has a remarkable array of flora and fauna
Shopping
Trinidad & Tobago now has its share of malls, from the most average to the highest end, like West Moorings in Port of Spain. Supermarkets also dot the island, but happily village farmer’s markets selling everything from food to DVDs still abound.
Frederick Street in Port of Spain is noted for its textiles, while Chaguanas’s Main Road is considered a bargain shopping hub for all manner of goods, not the least of which are authentic East Indian products and handicrafts. At Maracas Bay a number of vendors sell handmade jewelry, bags, and shoes, and while many of them walk among the sunbathers hawking their goods, they often do have lovely items at reasonable prices.
Festivals
Feasting and food are an integral part of most Trinidad & Tobago holidays. Here are some (but by no means all) of the major festivals not to be missed for their pageantry, culture, and nibbles.
Arrival Day (May 30)—Celebrates the arrival of the Fatel Rozack, the first indenture ship bringing East Indians to labor in the cane fields of Trinidad in 1834.
Carnival—Often called “The Greatest Show on Earth,” Carnival celebrations last from Shrove Thursday (the Thursday before Ash Wednesday) to Fat Tuesday (Dimanche Gras). The days are filled with parades, music contests, and high-energy revelry.
A band of Carnival revelers proudly show off the nation’s colors
Corpus Christi Day—A major Catholic holiday in Trinidad & Tobago that marks the anniversary of the institution of the Holy Eucharist, this event is marked by processionals in communities on both islands. The largest procession is held at the Catholic church in Independence Square, Port of Spain. Late spring date varies.
Diwali—The Hindu festival honoring the triumph of light over darkness, Diwali is a national holiday in Trinidad marked by elaborate light displays and Hindu vegetarian feasting. While Diwali generally takes place in October or November, the exact day varies annually by astronomical indicators.
Eid Al Fitr—Marking the end of the Ramadan or Muslim fast, Eid Al Fitr features elaborate feasts at mosques and cultural centers throughout Trinidad. The exact day varies annually by astronomical indicators and locality.
Emancipation Day (August 1)—Commemorating the official end of slavery in the Caribbean in 1838, Emancipation Day is a national holiday marked by a parade through Port of Spain featuring traditional African dress and music. At night the Flambeau parade lights up the procession route.
Hosay—Commemoration of the deaths of the Muslim martyrs Hassan and Hossein, Hosay is marked by the construction of elaborate paper mache tadjah, model mausoleums/tombs, that are then marched to the sea in a processional led by tassa drummers and floated away.
Parang Festival (Sept.-Dec.)—Parang, the music of Spanish settlers in Trinidad, is an integral part of Trinidad’s Christmas season. Beginning on September 25th parranderos or parang bands are invited to sing in public settings island-wide through to Christmas.
Phagwha (Holi)—Usually held in the Spring, Phagwha is a Hindu celebration of the triumph of good over evil marked by the exuberant throwing of colored water and powder during singing, dancing, and other festivities.
Spirtual Baptist (Shouter) Liberation Day (March 30)—This unusual holiday marks the 1951 repeal of a 1917 law instituted by the colonial government to ban the Baptist religion in Trinidad & Tobago. During the time of the ban, Baptists were persecuted, beaten, and jailed by the Colonial government. Today, jubilant celebrations countrywide mark the holiday.
Tobago Goat Race—Held during Easter weekend, specially trained racing goats run to the wind, their jockeys alongside, in this well-attended and joyful event.
Tobago Heritage Festival—This two-week event is observed by a number of small harvest festivals in towns dotting the island celebrating the African tradition that is the hallmark of Tobago culture. The highlight is the re-enactment of a traditional Tobago wedding, “Ole Time Tobago Wedding,” which takes place over two days with the Bachelor’s Night, Bride’s Affair (preparing the bride), Ceremony, Cake and Wine Reception, and Grand Reception. Dates vary, check yearly calendar.
Hosay commemoration.
For more information on travel to Trinidad & Tobago, visit Go Trinidad & Tobago at www.discovertnt.com.
SERVES: 6
Despite the warm climate, hot porridges are very popular for breakfast in Trinidad and much of the Caribbean. In Trinidad as in the rest of the Caribbean, porridges are more often made from starchy vegetables such as cassava, pumpkin, and corn instead of from grains. This porridge may be served warm, or if allowed to cool in a greased bowl or loaf pan, it will form a custard that can be inverted onto a plate and sliced for a cold dessert.
6 ears fresh corn
1 tablespoon butter
3 cups coconut milk
½ cup brown sugar
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 Grate the corn niblets off the cob into a bowl.
2 Melt the butter in a large deep saucepan and add the corn. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring often, until the corn begins to soften. Do not allow it to brown.
3 Add the coconut milk and brown sugar and continue to cook and stir until the sugar dissolves. Stir in the cinnamon.
4 Continue to cook the porridge over medium heat, stirring constantly so the bottom does not burn, for about 5 to 7 minutes or until the mixture is reduced by one-quarter.
5 Serve the porridge hot for breakfast or cool completely then pour into a greased loaf pan and chill in the refrigerator overnight, covered in plastic wrap, until it forms a custard. Slice and serve for dessert with whipped cream.
SERVES: 4
Cornmeal Porridge differs from Fresh Corn Porridge (opposite page) in that it uses cornmeal instead of fresh corn and evaporated milk instead of coconut milk. Use finely ground cornmeal for this dish or you’ll have a porridge that is more grainy, like grits.
⅓ cup finely ground cornmeal
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
1-inch cinnamon stick or 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ cup light brown sugar
1