Sweet Hands: Island Cooking from Trinidad & Tobago, 3rd edition. Ramin Ganeshram
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SERVES: 4
The Middle Eastern chickpea dip called hummus is now as popular as peanut butter in the United States, a development that took place over the last ten years. In Trinidad, hummus has been eaten for nearly one hundred years, arriving with Syrian-Lebanese refugees in the late 1800s. As with many immigrant foods, Syrian hummus was adapted to local ingredients and flavors so that today it features seasoning peppers—or aji dulce—and shado beni (Mexican culantro). I like to use dried chickpeas that are reconstituted and cooked for this recipe because I believe they process to a nice smooth texture without being watery. However, you can use canned chickpeas if you desire.
1 cup dried chickpeas, soaked overnight in 3 cups of water
2 cloves garlic
1 small seasoning pepper (aji dulce*), stemmed and seeded
6 leaves shado beni or cilantro
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
1 tablespoon tahini
¼ cup olive oil or more as needed
1 teaspoon coarse salt or to taste
1 If using dried chickpeas, bring 3 cups of water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Drain the chickpeas and add them to the pot. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook the chickpeas until tender, about 30 minutes. Drain. (If using canned, drain and rinse in colander.)
2 Place the cooked chickpeas, garlic, seasoning pepper, and shado beni in the bowl of a food processor and process into a coarse paste. Mix the lime juice and tahini together and add to the chickpea mixture.
3 With processor on, drizzle in olive oil, adding enough to achieve a thick paste. Add water a teaspoon at a time until the hummus reaches a smooth, easily spreadable consistency. Scrape the hummus into a bowl and stir in the salt. Serve with pita bread or crudite.
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*If you cannot find aji dulce, ¼ cup finely chopped red bell pepper is a good substitute.
MAKES 24
These delicious fritters make use of salt cod (baccalà), a popular ingredient brought to the West Indies by the Portuguese and Spanish. The only downside is that the smell of cooked fish permeates the house for some time, so I suggest making accras on a fine day when you can have the windows open!
½ pound boneless salt cod
1 teaspoon active dry yeast (see Tip)
¾ cup warm water (100–110°F), divided
½ teaspoon sugar
1 cup sifted all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 scallion, finely chopped
¼ teaspoon hot pepper sauce
1 teaspoon green seasoning (page 254)
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 cup canola oil for frying
1 Place the salt cod and 2 cups of cold water in a medium pot over medium heat. Bring to a boil and then reduce heat and simmer until the liquid is reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Drain and repeat this process two more times. After draining the salt cod the last time, place in a large bowl and finely shred with a fork. Set aside.
2 In a small bowl, combine the yeast, ¼ cup warm water, and sugar. Stir well and set aside until foamy, about 1 to 2 minutes.
3 Sift together the flour, baking powder, and black pepper. Add the yeast mixture, remaining ½ cup warm water, scallion, pepper sauce, green seasoning, cilantro, and egg. Beat very well until you have a smooth, thick batter. Set aside to proof for 1 hour.
4 Once the dough has proofed, stir in the flaked salt cod.
5 Heat the oil in a deep saucepan (test by dropping ¼ teaspoon of dough into the oil; when it bobs to the surface and fries vigorously, the oil is ready). Drop tablespoons of batter into the oil in batches, being sure not to overcrowd the pot. Fry until golden brown, about 1 minute, then remove with a slotted spoon. Drain on paper towels. Serve hot.
Tip
If you don’t want to use yeast, baking powder will work as well but the accras won’t be as airy. Substitute 1 tablespoon of baking powder for the yeast and allow the dough to sit for 20 minutes rather than 1 hour.
SERVES: 6
This popular breakfast food of spiced chickpeas served between two pieces of fried dough is also a late-night favorite after a good “lime,” the Trini term for “hanging out.” On Friday and Saturday nights, smart doubles vendors take to their open-air stands to serve hungry revelers seeking a midnight snack.
DOUGH
⅓ cup warm water (100–110°F)
¼ teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon active dry yeast
2 cups all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon coarse salt
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
FILLING
2 cups dried chickpeas, soaked overnight in 6 cups water, or 1 (16-ounce) can chickpeas
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 onion, thinly sliced
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
4½ teaspoons Trinidad curry powder (page 253)
Pinch of ground cumin
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
MAKE DOUGH:
1 Place the warm water, sugar, and yeast in a small bowl. Set aside until the mixture bubbles, about 1 to 2 minutes.
2 In a large bowl combine the flour, salt, turmeric, cumin, and black pepper. Stir in the yeast mixture and add additional lukewarm water as needed, about ½ cup, until the mixture comes together into slightly firm dough. Knead until smooth and elastic and cover with a damp cloth. Set aside in a warm place