Brazil and the River Plate in 1868. Hadfield William
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acceptable beverage.
December 31st, 1867.—The last day of the old year is an event that calls for reflection and particularly at sea, when the mind is generally more open than elsewhere to receive impressions, and free to take into review the past—to enquire how the time has been spent. Few of us, probably, can answer this question satisfactorily, but at all events it is desirable to make the enquiry. There is no postman's knock at the door, no friends to see, nor any to seek us out. Our little world is the ship on which we are sailing, and those within it, the greater part of whom have been utter strangers to each other previous to embarkation. Selfishness under such circumstances finds its level, or is confined within very narrow bounds, and a common instinct draws every one together, until at the end of the voyage, when those who are only passengers part, and go each on his several mission, few in all likelihood ever to meet again in their various walks in life. Most leave friends behind, whom they look forward to rejoining, or they have friends to welcome them in the new countries to which they are speeding their way. The great ocean brings strikingly home to us the wondrous works of the Almighty Ruler of the Universe, and the littleness of man himself. Again, we are apt to forget the immensity of the ocean, which, as compared with the land, is computed at 145¾ million of statute miles against 51 million square statute miles of land, or a total of both of 196¾ millions. A little incident occurred this morning in our meeting the screw steamer Uruguay (which signalised twenty days out from the River Plate), one of the Liverpool line of steamers, making her way to St. Vincent to coal, and she will, no doubt, report us at home. Time did not afford opportunity for exchanging news, which would have been very acceptable on both sides. We also passed an American ship steering northward, being now in the track of vessels homeward bound, 10° 30´ north latitude and 26° 30´ east longitude; a fine steady breeze driving us, with the aid of the screw, fully eleven knots an hour.
January 4th, 1868.—We have crossed the line, gone through the variables, and are in the south-east trades. The air is cool and pleasant, and the ship making nearly twelve miles an hour, with a smooth sea and little motion—the perfection of sailing. There is a freshness about the Southern hemisphere which I have always enjoyed. Steady breezes and a clear sky, with light fleecy clouds. We passed several vessels yesterday standing to the northward, amongst them a fine Yankee screw corvette, which hoisted her number, but she was not in our signal book. Less than another week of this weather will take us into Rio de Janeiro, in somewhat over 20 days, which will be a very good passage, and we have certainly been very much favoured in having fair, moderate weather, with scarcely any rain, and no squalls. The great advantage of steam over sailing ships is not only much quicker passages, but running out of calms or variable winds, and making a straight course to the point of destination.
January 10th, 1868.—We made Cape Frio light, off Rio de Janeiro, about midnight, and came into harbour early this morning, twenty-one and a half days from Falmouth. After the usual formalities in connection with the health and custom-house departments, we steamed up to the coal island, and were soon moored alongside, ready for coaling and discharging cargo. There were fewer ships in the bay than I ever remember to have seen. Her Majesty's store-ship Egmont was lying there, and one or two other vessels of war. A splendid Spanish frigate, the Blanca, which had participated in the bombardment of Valparaiso, steamed out of harbour as we came in, but whither bound no one could say. On going on shore I found the landing place not much improved, and the custom-house formalities had increased in rigour, extending even to a charge on the small quantity of luggage required for a change whilst on shore. It is a mistake in an enlightened country like Brazil to subject passengers to such absurd regulations, which can bring in very little revenue and get the country a bad name. In other respects little or no restriction is experienced in going to or from the ship, either day or night. We found the news from the seat of war unsatisfactory as regards its progress, and, what was worse, we learned that the cholera was raging at Buenos Ayres, vessels from the River Plate being placed in quarantine on arrival at Rio; but the latter city was healthy, notwithstanding the great heat which, during the two days we remained in harbour, was most intense, the thermometer in the shade being over 90°. Working all night enabled the steamer to be ready to start again on Sunday morning, the 12th January, when we again sailed from Rio on our way to the River.
1. Since writing the above, Messrs. Tait have parted with their exclusive interest in the line to a limited company, with a very influential board of direction, and of which Mr. Peter Tait is himself the chairman. No doubt this will lead to a yet more vigorous prosecution of an enterprise which has already and thus early secured so large a share of commercial patronage and support.
THE CITY OF MONTE VIDEO.
Seeing the accounts at Rio were not encouraging, I was advised to delay my trip southward, but as the River Plate was my ultimate destination, and my business pressing, I was desirous to reach Buenos Ayres as quickly as possible, taking Rio Janeiro on my return. So I continued on board the steamer, which left Rio on Sunday morning, the 12th January, 1868, and we came to anchor in Monte Video harbour at 1 p.m. on the 16th—a very good passage of four days and a few hours. The weather had been hot during the passage, giving us a foretaste of what we might look for here. The health inspector did not come off to us for three hours, a very annoying delay after the captain of a steamer has done his best to get quickly to his port, and to whom, as well as to his owners, hours are of consequence; but not so to officials in these countries. I believe I surmised correctly that the health officer was at dinner when we arrived, that he would take his siesta, and then come to look after us. As it was then getting past business hours, I preferred remaining cool and quiet on board the ship, but several of our passengers went on shore, and passed the night there, as it is difficult to get off after dark. The budget of news we received from the agents, who came on board after the health visit, made me wish I had taken the wise advice of Rio friends. The cholera was raging at Buenos Ayres and throughout the Argentine Republic, and appeared to be bad enough at Monte Video, in addition to which a revolution had broken out at Santa Fé against the Government, the rebels having actually got possession of Rosario, as well as some portion of the railway, whose metals they had partly torn up at one of the bridges, throwing them into the river below. It is difficult to account for this kind of wanton mischief, unless it was to show their contempt for civilized means of transit, for having reached Rosario, their policy should have been to keep the line open as a means of retreat in case of need, and then to have taken up the rails to impede troops who might be following them. I found Mr. and Mrs. Wheelwright at the Oriental Hotel, Monte Video, a new and handsome building erected since my last visit, and worthy any city in Europe, but unfortunately several of the inmates died of cholera there and it was afterwards deserted. The Oriental was full when we arrived, but we found comfortable quarters at the Gran Hotel Americano, also a large and handsome edifice lately built, nor can anything more strongly mark the advance of Monte Video than these two hotels in addition to those previously existing. The impressions conveyed in my former narrative as to the development of Monte Video were favourable, but I hardly expected to see the place grown half as large again since that time, which certainly is the case. Building of late years has taken extraordinary proportions here, and the price paid for choice spots in the city is something fabulous. Then again the streets have been all paved and flagged—roughly enough it must be confessed, but still they appear to answer the purpose for the peculiar description of traffic over them, and are a great improvement upon the sand and mud which existed before. During the few days I remained at Monte Video, everything was in a very miserable state, the mortality increasing and the telegrams from Buenos Ayres quite awful. I therefore resolved to return to Rio Janeiro, and wait a more favourable moment for prosecuting my mission. The heat was intense, and the minds of people so preoccupied with the pestilence as to render it impossible to follow the object of my mission with any chance of success. The City of Limerick came up from Buenos Ayres on the morning of the 24th of January, and was released from quarantine in the afternoon, when Captain Peters came on shore, and his report confirmed my previous views as to returning to Rio; so at 5 p.m. I went on board with him. We got under weigh at sunset, with a fresh breeze, and, passing Flores light, were off Maldonado light about 3 p.m.—a nasty