Brazil and the River Plate in 1868. Hadfield William
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my return from the River Plate, in the beginning of February, I availed myself of the opportunity to ramble about the city and suburbs, to visit old friends, and to go over the railways, an account of which will be found under its proper head. The weather was still very hot, with frequent heavy thunder storms, some terrifically grand—more so than I ever remember during a two years' residence here. From my room window, at the Hotel dos Estrangeiros, I could see the whole heavens lighted up with frequent flashes, and now and again portions of the bay and of the mountains stood out as if from a sea of fire. Then the awful crash of the thunder, followed by instant and utter darkness, and with reverberations shaking the house to its foundations, all combined to heighten the grandeur and sublimity of the scene. As for sleeping in the midst of such turmoil, it was simply impossible.
Both February and March were very wet, stormy months, and on one occasion some large trees were blown down about the city, and much damage done to the roofs of houses, many of which are not very well protected from such visitations. Similar weather followed me to San Paulo, but on my return to Rio, after again visiting the River Plate, the weather was delightfully cool, fine, and pleasant, equal to the most agreeable portion of our summer weather in Europe. There is no doubt the climate of Rio de Janeiro is a healthy one, and it is a striking fact that scarcely any cases of epidemic have occurred since the sewerage of the city was completed, nor any visitation of cholera, notwithstanding sick and wounded were constantly arriving from the seat of war, and that the quarantine was merely nominal. I am convinced the very thunder storms to which I have alluded tend to purify the atmosphere. The deluges of rain of course exercise a great cleansing power, and it has been noticed in years when thunder storms did not prevail that much sickness followed. One requires to go closely over the city before he finds out improvements which have been effected in Rio, which are nowhere so palpable as when passing through the great public thoroughfares. With such a number of narrow intersecting streets, no adequate idea of the size or extent of the city can be formed until some of the hills about it are ascended, such as that of Santa Theresa. It is, however, from the top of the Corcovado that its dimensions are most striking, from whence also the spectator can form a fair notion of the extent of the bay.
I have before remarked on the defective state of the landing-places, that most used, near the custom-house, being a very dirty, dilapidated wooden jetty, about which the rabble of the city seems to collect, and it is always a scene of much uproar and confusion. There is quite a Babel among the boatmen and their black hangers-on. There are some other landing-places, with stone steps, in front of the large square, whence the ferry-boats across the bay take their departure, but these are not very convenient, and the untidy state of the public market which stands here is a disgrace to the municipality. Indeed nothing can be more derogatory to a large city like Rio de Janeiro, possessing the finest harbour in the world, than such landing places, which create a most unfavourable impression on strangers. The Custom-house, with its wharves and warehouse, the Marine Arsenal and Building-yard, together with the private wharves, occupy a large portion of the water frontage, but there is still sufficient space left, if it were properly laid out, as I believe is intended before very long, for decent landing-places for the public. Speaking of the Custom-house, the source from whence a large portion of the revenue of the country is derived, it is an unsightly building, though immense sums of money have been spent, and are still being spent, in order to obtain adequate accommodation for the increasing trade of the port. Hydraulic lifts and machinery of every possible kind are in course of erection, and a few years will doubtless see the Rio Custom-house take its stand as the finest building of the sort in South America. The old Praça do Commercio, or Exchange, with its dismal vaulted roof, remains unchanged since my last visit, but when the Custom-house is completed I believe it is intended to construct an exchange more worthy of the place, with suitable accommodation attached. This, as well as a foreigners' club, is much required at Rio, where the foreign population is numerous and influential, and ought to be represented in a manner consistent with its importance.
When I lived here in the years 1848 and 1849, there was much sociability—amongst the English residents at all events—but this appears to have quite died out, and even ceremonial visits are now rarely exchanged. The only society worthy of the name existing in Rio is that associated with the diplomatic circle, which is of course more or less exclusive in its character. I must nevertheless notice one institution in which I found a great change for the better. I mean the English Church. A good deal of money has been spent in connection with this edifice, entirely raised by private subscriptions, and certainly it has been well spent. The recess built out for the communion table is very pretty, and the organ is well placed, in a line with the body of the church. There is a good choir, the whole arrangements being very complete, and the service efficiently performed. The Rev. Mr. Preston is chaplain.
Whilst in Rio, I went to the Palace of Sao Christovao, and had the honour of being presented to the Emperor, whom I was glad to see looking well, but thinner than when I last saw him, fifteen years since. The Palace is well situated, on a rising ground, with a good prospect, and appears to be comfortable enough, but without any gorgeous display. The Court is very simple in its habits, and the democratic tendencies of the people render access to it comparatively easy.
With regard to politics, the Government has generally an opposition party to contend with, both in the Chamber and in the Senate, but without impeding the regular proceedings of these bodies, which, on the whole, are conducted with great decorum, and the speeches are very fully and fairly reported,[5] occupying whole pages of the daily papers. The Jornal do Commercio still stands pre-eminent in the Rio press—as the Times, in fact, of the Brazilian Empire.
The political discussions in the press, which are perfectly free, are often pursued with considerable acrimony. At the same time there is a degree of reticence observable which some of our newspaper writers would do well to imitate. Brazil does not lack parliamentary orators or able statesmen, but public business is trammelled with too much of red tapery as at home. The current of popular feeling does not run very deep from the fact that the bulk of the community are too much absorbed in their business occupations to leave them much time for political discussions, to which a large portion of Englishmen devote themselves because they have little else to do. It must not, however, be inferred from this remark that Brazilians are indifferent to what passes inside the walls of the Senate or of the Chamber. The support the Government has received in carrying on a long and costly war proves that the honour and well-being of the Empire is as dear to them as to the most patriotic people.
I am glad to have to record the abolition of passports in Brazil unless specially asked for. I had occasion to notice the inconvenience caused on a late trip to the River Plate, and it is gratifying to see that Brazilian statesmen appreciate the march of events in this respect, as I trust will also soon be the case in facilitating the despatch of passengers' luggage. As a rule, passengers do not carry with them articles subject to duty, though, of course, a surveillance in this matter is quite necessary. At Buenos Ayres there is a custom station on the mole or landing place where passengers can bring their luggage, which is at once examined and passed, thus saving much time and trouble. The Post-office is on the whole pretty well managed and letters are promptly delivered on arrival of the mails. The building is, however, quite unsuited to the requirements of so large a city as Rio de Janeiro, and I learn that it is intended to erect a fine new post-office in a square facing the Bay, which will be a great convenience to the public.
I found the population on the opposite side of the bay had not increased as much as I expected, although the facility of crossing by the large American ferry steamers is a great convenience. Nitherohy is a large straggling place, supposed to contain a population of about 20,000, but there are many houses uninhabited, nor do the Rio people show much partiality for a residence there even at a much less rent. Some handsome villas have been built there, and it is intended to light the place with gas, which would be a decided advantage to the residents. Some of the islands in the upper parts of the bay are now cultivated and inhabited, and numerous small craft ply between them and Rio de Janeiro, bringing down fruits and vegetables.
In the appendix to this volume will be found sundry official documents and statistical information in reference to the resources and commerce of Brazil. The institutions of the Empire are very favourable to mercantile development, and the great progress made within the past half century is indicative of a highly prosperous