Walking in Sardinia. Paddy Dillon
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and Spain, and north of the African countries of Tunisia and Algeria. The island's location attracted early settlers from three distinct parts of the Mediterranean – the Italian and Iberian peninsulas, and North Africa. Each had their own culture and traditions, and yet the island was large enough to absorb these, and all other invaders and settlers, throughout the centuries.
Sardinia is renowned for its astounding coastline and rugged landscapes
Sardinia is one of the largest Mediterranean islands, being second only to Sicily in size. Some islands are small enough to be explored comfortably in holidays lasting a week or two, but this simply isn't the case with Sardinia. The island is huge, and the best way for British visitors to appreciate this is to remember that it is about the same size as Wales, but rather more difficult to get around.
Exploring Sardinia in depth would take a lifetime, which is why this guidebook concentrates on the region where the best walking opportunities are within easy reach of each other. In summer, when the heat is ferocious at sea level, the high mountains and cooler air can be gained with relative ease. In winter, when the mountains are covered in snow, the low-lying parts and coastal fringe feature much kinder weather.
Geology
In the area covered by this guidebook, the oldest rocks are complex, contorted, crumbling schist, occurring mainly in the highest mountains of Gennargentu. In some places there are significant granite intrusions, and this rock either forms prominent outcrops or crumbles into coarse sand and gravel. Rising from the sea are massive limestone cliffs, and the same rock extends far inland, rising to high mountains, often incredibly steep, rugged and arid. In some places remnants of this limestone layer sit on top of the crumbling schist and form distinctive taccu (‘shoe-heel') summits, which are steep-sided and flat-topped. Some areas, particularly around the Golgo plateau and Dorgali, are covered by relatively recent basalt lava flows.
The high mountains are often composed of highly contorted schist containing bands of quartz
History
In common with most Mediterranean islands, Sardinia has a long and complex history. It was visited by palaeolithic hunter-gatherers, who established no permanent settlements. Continuous habitation dates from neolithic times, around 6000BC. Interestingly, these settlers travelled from places as far apart as Italy, Iberia and Africa. They sometimes formed alliances and were sometimes in dispute with each other. The most notable neolithic structures on the island are the square-cut rock tombs known as domus de janas (‘fairy house') and tomba dei giganti (‘giants' tomb'). Dwellings, on the other hand, were simple circular huts, with low stone foundations topped by a ‘wigwam' of thatched branches, similar to the pinnettus used by shepherds today.
Inside one of the domus de janas at the Necropoli di Ispiluncas (Walk 50)
By the Bronze Age, around 1500BC, villages of circular huts were often huddled close together for mutual defence, and stout nuraghe (stone towers) were built as central refuges. Immense boulders were used in their construction. Many remain in good shape, some have been partially restored, while others have tumbled, making them difficult to locate, although around 7000 are known.
Phoenician traders visited Sardinia from 1000BC, establishing coastal settlements at first, but encountering resistance as they moved further inland. When Sardinians attacked their ports after 500BC, the Phoenicians sought help from the Carthaginians. Together they conquered most of the island, except for the highest and most rugged mountain areas, which proved difficult for all subsequent invaders to control. After the First Punic War in 238BC, the Romans took control of Sardinia and it became a Roman province for seven centuries. The highest and most mountainous region was deemed ‘barbarian', and this is where the bulk of the routes in this guidebook are located.
With the collapse of Roman authority, Vandals settled in parts of Sardinia from AD456, but were dislodged after AD534, when Sardinia became part of the Byzantine empire. The ‘barbarian' region was the last to be brought under control, and the last to be converted to Christianity. As Arabs spread around the Mediterranean, Sardinia organised its own resistance. Coastal raids commenced in AD703, and the population moved inland for safety. By the year 900 Sardinia had split into four distinct regions, referred to as giudicati. Each region allied itself with particular powers, including the city states of Genoa and Pisa.
As various European powers jostled for supremacy, Sardinia came under Aragonese influence and found itself part of the Kingdom of Sardinia and Corsica in 1324. Political turmoil throughout the 14th century led to the formation of the kingdom of Arborea, which encompassed the whole of Sardinia, except for the towns of Cagliari and Alghero, with Eleonora d'Arborea as effective ruler. However, Spanish influence and control in Sardinia stretched through to the early 18th century. During the War of Spanish Succession, Austria and Spain wrestled for control before the island passed to the dukes of Savoy, princes of Piedmont, by 1718. This move led to Sardinia being incorporated into Piedmont, and both areas were jointly referred to as the Kingdom of Sardinia.
Sardinia's history and heritage is often celebrated by murals painted on the walls of houses
A succession of wars led to the unity of states on the Italian peninsula, and by 1861 the Kingdom of Sardinia became the Kingdom of Italy. After the Second World War Italy became a republic in 1946, and Sardinia was granted a greater measure of autonomy than any other region. The coastal areas were malarial until 1950, but the disease was wiped out by a comprehensive spraying program. Tourism developed from that point, but wavering economics caused many Sardinians to leave the island. In the 1960s new industries flourished, including oil refineries and chemical plants. Some marshland areas were reclaimed for agriculture, while some agricultural areas were covered by industrial estates. On the highest and most rugged parts of the island, there was little change, though rural populations declined as people moved to the expanding urban areas. There are almost 1.7 million people living in Sardinia, mostly in a handful of towns, but there are also ten million visiting tourists each year, most of whom come for the beaches.
Landscape
Sardinia's landscapes are rich and varied. Most upland regions are well forested, but many parts feature dense, bushy scrub, or macchia, and plenty of bare rock. Most of the routes in this guidebook climb above 500m (1640ft), and may climb above 1000m (3280ft), with three routes converging on the highest mountain, Punta La Marmora, at 1834m (6017ft).
Some of the lower sunny slopes have been adapted to support vineyards, while low-lying areas are often intensively cultivated, producing all types of fruit and vegetables. The forested areas often feature clearings, which might be stocked with goats or pigs. Sheep and cattle are generally grazed in grassier areas.
No matter what types of landscape are encountered, the overall aspect is remote and rugged, removed from habitation. The terrain is ideal for walking, as long as good tracks and paths are followed. Trying to walk across country, without the benefit of trodden routes, often results in great difficulties.
Outside the area covered by this guidebook the mountains are lower, but no less rugged. As fewer walkers head for these other areas, there are not as many waymarked trails – none at all in some places – and fewer opportunities to discover a good range of walking routes. However, there are plenty of beaches that are much easier to reach than most of the beaches visited on routes in this guidebook.
Trees and Flowers
Sardinia's forests are overwhelmingly oak, ranging from evergreen holm oak to thick-barked cork oak, with deciduous oaks favouring the higher mountains. In some places pines are notable, either natural or in plantations. In limestone areas, gnarled juniper trees are common, and their trunks and branches endure long after they die. Lentisc trees often form dense, bushy scrub. Tall, straight