A good track, flanked by cistus bushes, enters a forest and gradually climbs uphill (Walk 28)

      The author enjoyed a particularly fine, typically Sardinian meal at the Sant' Efisio restaurant near Lotzoraì, www.hotel-santefisio.com, located close to several of the walking routes in this guidebook.

Language

      Italian is widely spoken and understood around Sardinia, but bear in mind that the native island language, Sard, which is quite distinct from Italian, is also widely spoken. Sard comes in many dialects, which vary remarkably from place to place around the island. Common place-names on maps are in Sard (see Appendix 2 for a glossary of topographical terms) and vary widely in spelling, depending on the dialect. English is often spoken by people working in popular tourist locations and large hotels, but is rarely spoken in rural and mountainous areas of the island. A few basic Italian phrases go a long way (see Appendix 2), and in most places people are remarkably patient while dealing with visitors whose command of the language is limited.

Money Matters

      The Euro is the currency of Sardinia. Large denomination Euro notes are difficult to use for small purchases, so avoid the €500 and €200 notes altogether, and the €100 notes if you can. The rest – €50, €20, €10 and €5 – are the most useful. Coins come in €2 and €1. Small denomination coins come in values of 50c, 20c, 10c, 5c, 2c and 1c. Banks and/or ATMs are often available even in remote mountain villages. Many accommodation providers will accept major credit and debit cards, but be ready to pay cash just in case they don't.

Communications

      Post offices are located in towns and large villages, but may not be available in small villages. Public telephones are also available wherever there are settlements, but if not, ask at a bar. Mobile phone signals are usually good around settlements, but the nature and remoteness of the countryside usually ensures that there are plenty of dead areas where signals cannot be accessed. There are very few internet outlets, but some accommodation providers may offer a service. If access is needed, enquire before booking. (Curiously, the internet service provider Tiscali was named after a remote Sardinian archaeological site.)

Tourist Information

      Tourist information for the whole of Sardinia is available at www.sardegna turismo.it. Two regional tourism bodies cover the area featured in this guidebook, Nuoro www.provincia.nuoro.it and Ogliastra www.turismo.ogliastra.it. Tourist information offices are rarely encountered while travelling around such a remote area, but can be found in towns and larger villages. Offices in the following locations may prove useful when looking for information about accommodation and local attractions.

Walking in Sardinia

      In many respects, Sardinia is ideal for walking, while in other respects it is very challenging. It all depends on your expectations and skills. Some paths are notoriously difficult to locate and follow, and even some popular paths are surprisingly rugged. On the other hand, several paths and tracks have been cleared, signposted and waymarked in recent years for the benefit of walkers. In this guidebook the box at the start of each route gives a brief description of the terrain and indicates whether any part of the route is waymarked. It is important to read the route descriptions carefully and to choose routes that suit your desires and abilities.

      How to operate a rustic ‘gate' in a tall fence

      The cliff coast of Ogliastra is absolutely stunning, but the only route along it, from Santa Maria to Cala Gonone, is the Selvaggio Blu www.selvaggioblu.it. This requires rock-climbing and abseiling skills, and is not included in this guidebook. Some routes offer beach access, while other routes explore further inland on the Supramonte, even to the highest mountains on the island on Gennargentu.

Where to Stay

      Sardinia is a large island, and although this guidebook covers only one part of it, walkers wishing to complete several routes would be advised to choose more than one base in which to stay, in order to limit time spent travelling to and from the walks. Some small towns and villages offer access to several walks (see the ‘Location of walks' map at the front of the guide to spot concentrations of walks and handy villages).

      It is likely that most walkers using this guidebook will arrive via Cagliari, Olbia or Alghero. Nuoro, however, is the largest town lying close to the highest mountains, and it could be used as a base for several days, especially by walkers relying on bus services (remember to obtain and study timetables well in advance). Other useful bases with good access to a handful of walks include Oliena and Dorgali, for the Supramonte and Ogliastra. Villages such as Baunei, Santa Maria, Lotzorai and Tortolì are popular with people exploring Ogliastra. Mountain villages offering accommodation close to walking routes include Ulassai and Laconi. The highest mountains of Gennargentu can be reached easily from Aritzo, Desulo, Tonara and Fonni.

What to Take

      Those visiting Sardinia in winter and hoping to explore extensively in the mountains will occasionally need full winter kit, even to the extent of using an ice axe and crampons. For most of the year, however, decent sun protection and lightweight waterproofs to guard against occasional showers are sufficient. In many areas, and particularly in the summer, sources of water dry up, and it is necessary to carry plenty of water to guard against dehydration. Footwear is very much a personal choice, but bear in mind that while some routes follow roads and gravel tracks, others follow very rugged paths or even cross bare, broken and loose rock that may reduce walkers, quite literally, onto their hands and knees!

When to go

      Sardinia's weather is typically Mediterranean, with long, hot summers and most of the rainfall concentrated in the winter months. Most visiting tourists head for the beaches, which may experience as many as 300 sunny days per year. Many walkers also head for the coast and so will enjoy the same weather.

      Snow covers the gap of Arcu Gennargentu before the final climb onto Punta La Marmora (Walk 39)

      The mountains are rather different and make their own weather. In winter the highest mountains are covered in snow, sometimes from November until March, to the extent that a couple of small ski pistes flourish briefly. They may also be covered in low cloud,

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