Walking in Sardinia. Paddy Dillon
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Monte Ortobene is a very popular destination for motorists, although plenty of walkers also climb it. Farm and woodland tracks can be linked to approach the busy summit for exceptional views. A winding, waymarked path can be used on a well-wooded descent to return to Nuoro.
Start at a chapel, Chiesa la Solitudine, on the outskirts of Nuoro. A small bar and gelateria are available, and the walk goes up the road Via Monte Ortobene. When it bends sharp right, go through a gateway and down a concrete track into holm oak woods. Climb gently and turn right down to a picnic site in mixed woodland. Turn left down a track, and left again at a junction down to the road. Turn right and quickly right again, following a track running parallel to the road for a while. Cross a bridge and pass a turning signposted ‘Chiesa di N S di Valverde'. If visiting the chapel, return here afterwards.
The road reaches a ‘Km2’ sign at Janna Ventosa. Turn right and go through the middle of three gateways. A track descends steeply, then more gently past pines and eucalyptus, while the slopes of Monte Ortobene are dotted with granite tors. Climb a bit then continue down the track, across bouldery slopes of scrub woodland. Cross a stream-bed and climb gently, through a gateway and over a rise. The tallest trees are cork oaks, then the track climbs past olives, steepening and passing a ruin. The climb continues relentlessly on Cuccuru Sinnurtui, with dense macchia, cork oaks and pines alongside.
Turn left at a junction, undulating among mixed woodlands. Stay on the main track, avoiding all others to left and right, and later climb a concrete track with a power line alongside. A derelict sports centre stands to the right, around 700m (2300ft). Turn left along a road to reach a turning space beside a weed-grown sports pitch. Continue along and down a track into woods, then climb and watch for a vague path on the right. If you climb too far a grotesque outcrop is seen, with a gateway alongside. Go back down and look more carefully for the path.
The path is narrow and brambly, then clearer as it climbs through dense woods, a clearing, and more woods. Turn right up a broken concrete track and pass a few properties, reaching a road over 900m (2950ft). Turn left up the road, which curves round Cuccuru Nigheddu, offering splendid views, with Monte Bardia to the east, Monte Corrasi south-east, and Gennargentu sprawling south. Reach a couple of restaurants and turn right up a road, then go sharp left up a path to a chapel on a wooded hilltop. Follow a narrow path past a building further along the crest and head down to a car park. (This point is served by ATP buses from Nuoro.)
A pleasant, easy and obvious track runs round the northern slopes of Monte Ortobene
Follow a broad, stone-paved path, rising and falling through the woods. Climb stone steps to the huge bronze statue of Il Redentore (‘The Redeemer'), at 925m (3035ft) on Monte Ortobene. Enjoy extensive views, marred only by communication masts nearby at 955m (3133ft). Double back to the road and walk round the back of a nearby café/bar called Il Parco. A short concrete track leads onto a winding woodland track. Keep left of a house, passing a corner of a fence, to pick up a path flashed red/white, numbered 101. Walk down through the woods and cross an access track serving a youth centre. Continue down to a derelict building and turn left, almost to a road at Solotti, at 820m (2690ft).
Just before reaching the road, turn left through a brambly gap to follow a path. A fence and wall push the path away from the road, while red/white flashes show the way ahead, through a network of paths. An old track leads down to a road, but merely clip a bend and step behind ‘arrow’ signs to continue down the path. Either cross the road or walk under it at Funtana Milianu. Go down granite steps to follow a walled or fenced path that turns right down a steep track then quickly levels out among tall broom. Join a broader track and turn right, in effect straight ahead, to a cross-track where tall pines stand among holm oaks at Sos Frores, at 707m (2320ft).
Keep straight ahead, signposted ‘La Solitudine', following the path downhill until it rears uphill, worn and grooved. The trail is marked left – it is initially vague (flashed red/white), but becomes clearer as it climbs a groove past outcrops and boulders. Reach a clear track, but don't follow it. Turn quickly right and left to follow a narrow parallel path. Keep straight ahead along a clear path, going over a slight rise then down a groove. Pass between a covered reservoir and a house, walk down a concrete track to a transformer tower, then go straight ahead down a gritty path. Turn left up a road (or squeeze through a narrow bridge beneath), then turn sharp right and walk steeply down a narrow path. Fork left to finish in front of the chapel at La Solitudine.
WALK 2
Monte Corrasi from Oliena
| Start/Finish | Oliena |
| Alternative Start/Finish | Coop Enis (if arriving by car or taxi – just follow signs to Coop Enis and avoid the road walking) |
| Distance | 12km (from Coop Enis) or 20km (7½ or 12½ miles) |
| Total Ascent/Descent | 850 or 1200m (2790 or 3935ft) |
| Time | 4 or 6hrs |
| Terrain | A road and track climb high into the mountains, with rugged paths over the highest parts |
| Maps | IGMI ‘Serie 50’ 500, ‘Serie 25’ 500 III |
| Refreshment | Plenty of choice in Oliena; bar at Coop Enis |
| Transport/Access | Regular daily buses serve Oliena from Nuoro and Dorgali |
Monte Corrasi is the highest of a formidable group of mountains towering high above Oliena. A winding road and a zigzag track seem to climb for ever on its slopes, allowing steep and rocky mountainsides to be scaled with relative ease. A rugged path crosses the summit and offers extensive views.
The vehicle track climbs high above Oliena, offering a relatively easy climb towards Monte Corrasi
Start from the church, Chiesa Santa Maria, around 350m (1150ft) in Oliena. Walk through the cobbled Piazza Santa Maria, up a granite-paved road. Just before the tourist information office, turn left up steps through an amphitheatre to the comune building on Piazza Aldo Moro. Follow the cobbled Via Dr Antonio Puligheddu left of the building and turn left up the steep Salita Agostino Depretis. Climb steps and turn right along Via Ippolito Nievo, then left up Via Monte Grappa to the ‘Localita Turistica Monte Maccione’ sign. Turn left up Via Maggiore Toselli, and continue straight up Via Corrasi and straight up a concrete road signposted ‘Coop Enis'.
Pass Sos Pisches B&B, over 450m (1475ft), climbing a very bendy concrete road on a steep slope of holm oak, cypress and pines. Pass a small car park at Coop Enis, where there is a hotel, bar/restaurant and campsite around 700m (2300ft). Continue along a gravel road, which becomes concrete again, flanked by dense holm oak apart from a little viewpoint. Concrete gives way to gravel, so fork left up a broad path across densely wooded slopes. Join a stone-paved track, turn left to climb, and it reverts to concrete.
Keep left at a junction at Daddana. The return route joins the outward route here. The concrete track ends at a turning place around a tree. Climb a bendy, stony track, passing stone huts. Holm oaks grow tall and stout on grassy slopes studded with big boulders. Follow the most obvious track as it winds uphill, supported by buttresses, with ever-expanding views. Steep limestone slopes feature amazing buttresses and pinnacles, then the track reaches a turning space at Scala ‘e Pradu, at 1227m (4026ft).
Here four paths branch apart, and the one for Monte Corrasi is the furthest right, passing a little shrine. Follow it into a dip, where there is a sheepfold down to the left. The path is clear as it climbs a rocky, stone-strewn slope with tufts of matted vegetation. Cross a rise and drop a little, then climb more steeply, passing rocky stumps. A vegetated groove climbs between rocks, past a few hawthorns, with a bouldery slope and steep, rugged terrain beyond. Level out, climb another rocky, stone-strewn slope, then level out on a grassy shoulder. The path splits, and while this isn't obvious, it is important.