Walking in Sardinia. Paddy Dillon

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Walking in Sardinia - Paddy Dillon


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abrupt edge are extensive, stretching east to the mountains of Ogliastra and the coast, sweeping north and far inland beyond Nuoro, then west and south to the Gennargentu massif. Walk back down to the grassy shoulder and turn right along the other path, watching for cairns to confirm it. This path becomes significantly tougher, so if in doubt, retrace your steps to Coop Enis and Oliena.

      The path leads down through a vegetated cleft in the mountainside. Walk through it and later climb from it, picking a way carefully down a rocky, stone-strewn slope. Admire the amazing rugged scenery, but also watch for cairns, and take special care to avoid the rocky ridge. Pass beneath the boughs of a prominent tree, then almost level out to follow a broad, rocky part of the ridge. Looking back, Monte Corrasi appears as a perfect cone. Follow the path until it drops again and the cone passes from sight.

      Take care to spot the path swinging right across the crest at Scala ‘e Marras, around 1250m (4100ft). There is a glimpse back to the cone, while a cairn confirms the route. This sharp right turn is on bare limestone, then the path slices across the western slopes on a falling traverse. Rocky, stony slopes give way to holm oak woods with clearings. One steep descent is followed by a short climb, otherwise the path is narrow and occasionally vague. Keep watching for cairns and later drop onto a track.

      Turn right, gently rising and falling as the track crosses a slope of holm oak and arbutus, with rock towers and buttresses high above. A narrow path leads onwards, rising and falling across a steep, crumbling, wooded slope and crossing a boulder-jam below Monte Corrasi. A wire fence leads onwards and the path drops to a track. Turn right to walk up it, passing a spring in a dip. The track climbs across a mountain pasture dotted with trees, and later runs downhill at Daddana. Reach a bend on a concrete track followed earlier in the day, turn left and retrace steps to Coop Enis or Oliena to finish.

      Punta Ortu Camminu and Sos Nidos

Start/FinishOliena or Coop Enis
Distance21km (13 miles)
Total Ascent/Descent1250m (4100ft)
Time7hrs
TerrainA road and track climb high into the mountains, with very rough and rocky ground on the highest parts. A steep and stony descent into woods.
MapsIGMI ‘Serie 50’ 500, ‘Serie 25’ 500 III
RefreshmentPlenty of choice in Oliena; bar at Coop Enis
Transport/AccessRegular daily buses serve Oliena from Nuoro and Dorgali

      These two mountains can be reached directly from Oliena following the same winding road and track used for the initial part of the ascent of Monte Corrasi (Walk 2). However, the slopes are rocky and largely pathless, and this walk is for sure-footed walkers only. If the full circuit is followed, note that the descent is particularly rugged and requires great care.

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      Start by following Walk 2 to climb from Oliena. (For those walking the full circuit there is little to be gained by driving up to Coop Enis, but it is an alternative start point for those intending to retrace their steps from the summits.) Follow Walk 2 all the way up to the turning space at Scala ‘e Pradu, at 1227m (4026ft).

      Here four paths branch apart, and the one for Punta Ortu Camminu is the furthest left. This path drops to a small wire-fenced enclosure, so leave it and pick any likely looking line uphill. Walk on angled rock slabs, rather than wiry macchia. Clear weather helps enormously with route choices, and the higher parts, while rocky in places, are surprisingly grassy in others. Cross a slight gap to reach the highest point on Punta Ortu Camminu, which stands at 1331m (4367ft) and bears a square cairn. There are extensive views.

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      The vehicle track climbs high above Oliena, offering a relatively easy climb onto Punta Ortu Camminu

      There are cliffs to the west and north, so descend east towards a broad gap. Again, walk on angled slabs rather than macchia. The gap is above 1200m (3935ft) and a rocky slope beyond leads onto the prominent dome of Punta Sos Nidos, rising to 1348m (4422ft). From here, enjoy views of the limestone mountains of Ogliastra and the more distant granite whalebacks of Gennargentu. (It is possible to return directly to Scala ‘e Pradu from here, picking up a line of cairns and a path, without having to climb back over Punta Ortu Camminu.)

      The next stage is rocky, pathless and needs great care. Head south-east from the summit and keep away from cliff edges. The overall aim is to head roughly eastwards, watching carefully for good lines that allow feet to ‘stick’ to steep limestone, passing occasional juniper bushes. At first it isn't possible to stay high on the ridge, but later the ridge provides the best line. (Local shepherds run along this ridge!) The most awkward footwork comes between two holm oak trees – the only ones on the crest. When dense juniper is reached, the rocky crest splits and two ridges run down to a grassy gap. Walk down a little valley in between, using a vague path. The gap stands at almost 950m (3115ft), and provides immediate access to Punta Cusidore (see Walk 4).

      Turn left to leave the gap, where two thin paths soon join to form one vague, stony path winding down between juniper bushes. Watch for little cairns, keeping away from the cliffs of Punta Cusidore on the right, but don't go down the valley on the left either. A bar of rock pushes the path towards the valley. However, watch for cairns and follow a vague path down a steep, rocky slope. Keep the valley on the left and a scree slope on the right. The path and scree later descend as one steep, chaotic mass of rock and rubble into dense woods of holm oak and juniper. Watch for a cairn to enter the woods correctly, and follow the path until a huge limestone outcrop is reached at Preda ‘e Littu, at 335m (1099ft). Turn right here if descending to Monserrata, the start of Walk 4.

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