Bali & Lombok Tuttle Travel Pack. Paul Greenway
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the village atmosphere and numerous attractions nearby.
Lombok: Facilities across the strait in the tourist centers of Senggigi, the Gili Islands, and Lombok’s own Kuta beach are as good (but not as numerous) as Bali, but the range of transport, hotels, and restaurants is far more limited elsewhere and often caters for Indonesians, not western tourists. Senggigi is a perfect base: a likable beach resort close enough to explore western Lombok. Many zip across to the Gilis from Bali and never set foot on Lombok, which is a shame. Adorable and astoundingly undeveloped, Kuta is an increasingly popular holiday destination and base from which to discover the rugged southern coast.
1 Tanah Lot Temple Sunset, cliff-top dining, temples and… touristy crowds
Tanah Lot is unquestionably one of the most visited places on Bali—by tourists for its dramatic setting, and by Hindus as one of six revered, cardinal temples. Built some 500 years ago by a Javanese priest and dedicated to the Goddess of the Sea, Tanah Lot seems more dedicated these days to the God of Souvenir Stalls. But it’s all about the location, especially at sunset; the temple itself is 100m (320ft) offshore and only accessible to Hindus, and unreachable by anyone at high tide. The cliff-side path to the north passes the Pura Enjung Galuh temple (behind which are the best views of Tanah Lot), then some steps down to a wave-swept beach, and later to Pura Batu Bolong temple perched atop another rocky headland. Continuing to a clearing where a spectacular Kecak dance is held every evening after sunset (6.30pm; 45 mins), the path finishes at the recommended Melasti Tanah Lot restaurant (see page 82). The path south of Tanah Lot weaves through a handful of eateries (set up for sunset drinks and meals, but open all day) and ends at the Pan Pacific Nirwana Bali Resort and golf course, controversially built higher than the temple. To avoid the hordes, come during the day; in fact, before 9am you may have the whole complex to yourself. Visiting during the day allows you more time to admire impressive padi fields along the way and detour to rugged beaches such as Pantai Seseh. Traveling with your own transport is not recommended: roads are poorly-signed and traffic is reminiscent of a football final. Join an organized tour or take a taxi (which will wait).
Times Daily 7am–7pm Dress As you wish (you can’t enter) Getting There From Seminyak, turn left to “Canggu/Tabanan” and follow the signs. Public transport from Denpasar is limited and not available after sunset. Tip Inside the complex are two mid-priced hotels, while Astiti Graha homestay is 500m (546yds) before the entrance Also nearby Taman Ayun temple at Mengwi
2 Lake Bratan, Bedugul Highlands Speedboats and seafood; tourism Indonesian-style
One of Bali’s most underrated attractions, the gorgeous volcanic lake of Danau Bratan (Beratan) is incredibly popular with Indonesian tourists but surprisingly ignored by foreigners. While many understandably visit the striking Pura Ulun Danu Bratan temple, there’s much more to see and do at the southern edge of the lake. Taman Rekreasi Bedugul (Bedugul Recreation Park) is one of the best places on Bali for water sports such as canoes, banana boating, parasailing, and jet-skiing—and without the waves and high prices found along the southern beaches. The obligatory souvenir shops sell different brands of tacky stuff to Kuta, and at fixed prices designed for Indonesian (not western) tourists; and just as mandatory is the tiny temple (closed) at the western end surrounded by pesky monkeys. A walking path which starts opposite the fruit stalls skirts the lake and heads along a ridge to the top of Mount Mangu (2,020m/6,627ft), a six hour return hike. Opposite the turn-off to the park, The Strawberry Hill Resort (0368-21265) can arrange guides for hikes to nearby waterfalls and vanilla plantations, and around Buyan and Tamblingan lakes. Most visitors to Bedugul take a 15 minute whirl around the lake on a speedboat passing upmarket villas, farms growing an unpalatable combination of strawberries and garlic and, of course, that famous temple. Then they settle down to lunch at the restaurant (see page 83) overlooking the lake and under the towering volcanoes. But what makes Bedugul really special is that it caters exclusively for Indonesian tourists, so on weekends and public holidays the place is packed and perfect for watching Indonesians enjoying themselves—a great spectacle itself; while at other times the lake and park are eerily empty.
Times Daily 9am-8pm Address Turn-off is 1km (0.62 miles) down from Candikuning, then another 300m (328yds) to the entrance Getting There Public transport between Denpasar and Lovina; or shuttle bus between the southern beaches and Lovina Also nearby Jatiluwih rice terraces
3 Jimbaran Beach Seafood Dinner
Sunset, candles, fireworks, and serenading buskers
Despite its magnificent beach and proximity to Kuta and the airport, Jimbaran remains surprisingly undeveloped. This relative tranquillity is shattered, however, every day from 5pm when crowds rush there for the famed combination of seafood, beer, beach, sunset and more beer. During the afternoon, much of the long, curved stretch of white sand is set up with masses of tables. An extraordinary array of fish, lobster, prawns, and squid are available, although the days of cooking on the beach using traditional grills fired by coconut husks are long gone; meals are now prepared en masse in the back kitchen. Seafood is priced by the 100g or kilogram and should (but check) include rice, vegetables, sauce—such as garlic, sweet and sour, or bumbu Bali (Balinese spices)—and a fruit platter. Your culinary delights may then be enriched further by post-sunset entertainment including fireworks, Legong dances and parading musicians. Most restaurants offer similar meals, prices, service and setting, and are lumped together in four locations. (1) The southern Muaya Beach Café Area is quieter and closer to the resorts. (2) The cluster at the end of Jalan Pemelisan Agung is the most scenic and accessible by public transport. (3) The northern end at Kedonganan is where tour groups head so it’s always packed, but restaurants are more likely to offer wine, entertainment, and a Plan B if it rains. (4) Further north, the cafés along Kelan Beach are cheaper, with the added attraction of watching planes slide along the runway. Consider coming earlier than 5pm or even staying the whole day (see page 36).
Times Restaurants open daily 11am–9pm Getting There Organized tours (including food, transport, but not drinks); by taxi (which will wait, or get another afterwards); or infrequent bemo from southern Tuban (but not after dark) Tips Over-charging is not uncommon: check the price and weight of seafood before ordering; ensure there are no hidden extras (other than tax); and double-check your bill Also nearby Ulu Watu temple and Garuda Wisnu Kencana Cultural Park
4 Padangbai Village, East Bali This sheltered bay along the east coast is a delight
This compact and unpretentious village nestled along a scenic cove is often ignored, but Padangbai is much more than a departure point for ferries to Lombok and speedboats to the Gili Islands: it’s also a very appealing base from which to explore the east coast. Padangbai offers zero night-life and even less shopping, but that’s part of the attraction; and the ferry terminal is surprisingly unobtrusive—except for the horn-happy boat captains who delight in interrupting the serenity every hour, day and night. From the fork at the end of the main street, a path (200m/218yds) heads right at Topi Inn and finishes at the revered, millennium-old Pura Silayukti temple, regularly used for massive ceremonies. Steps down the other side of the headland lead to a cliff-side shrine with dramatic views towards Candidasa. The village beach is lined with jukung fishing boats and superb for photos, but less ideal for swimming. There are two excellent alternatives nearby, however, with cafés, deckchairs, and snorkeling gear for rent. At the fork, another path (a steep 350m/ 380yds) heads left to Blue Lagoon, an adorable beach that almost disappears at high tide. The other is Bias Tugel, about 800m (900yds) up from the other end of the village, past the morning market and in front of the skeletal remains of another unfinished resort. Snorkeling to other places, such as Tanjung Jepun, can be arranged with boatmen (who also rent gear) at stalls along the main (beach) street. More serious underwater