Words cannot describe the sheer beauty of the rice field terraces at Jatiluwih, where emerald-green amphitheaters cascade down the slopes under the omnipotent glare of four volcanoes, including Bali’s second highest, Gunung Batukau (2,271m/7,450ft). You’ll be stopping every 3.6 seconds to take photos, marvel at the skills required to tend and harvest the padi fields, and wonder how they were even chiselled from the rocky landscape centuries ago. It’s so extraordinary that UNESCO has recognized the area for its beauty and the ancient methods of growing, harvesting and irrigating the rice. Much of it is padi Bali, a taller and more nutritious variety of rice that only grows once a year. The area is now a popular stopover for the rash of eco-buggy-nature-cycling-adventure-trekking companies that have blossomed unabated in recent years. But the rice fields are not designed for hiking, although opposite the Warung Teras Subak café a walking trail has been created along a ridge providing astonishing 360-degree views. The road that weaves alongside the rice fields is about 4km (2.5 miles) long, starting from Warung Jatiluwih, the first of the buffet restaurants, to the last, Billy’s Terrace Café, which also offers the best views. Few venture onwards along the atrocious road to Pura Luhur Batukau, one of Bali’s most revered temples high on the slopes of Batukau (see page 54). Inevitably, there are plenty of places to stop, eat, and admire the views, as well as a few homestays.

      Address There’s a turn-off at Baturiti, along the road between Denpasar and Candikuning/Bedugul, but it’s probably more convenient from the road starting at the “Corn Cob Statue” in Candikuning. Always follow signs to “Senganan” and “Jatiluwih 259” (the name of the road). Getting There There’s no public transport, but it is included on some organized tours. Otherwise, charter an ojek (motorbike taxi) from Candikuning. Tip Bring a jumper and wet weather gear in case Also nearby Bedugul, and the temple at Lake Bratan

      11 Ubud’s Monkey Forest Eerie temples, forest walks, and cheeky primates

      This area of lush forest, more formally known as Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana, is perched at the bottom end of a busy shopping street. It’s home to hundreds of cute but recalcitrant Balinese Macaques, which are tolerated, and even revered, as descendants of the monkey god Hanoman who saved the wife of King Rama (as told in the Ramayana epic). But beware: they can be menacing if they think you’re carrying anything curved or yellow. Tickets to the sanctuary include a useful map with locations and explanations of the three temples, each originally built in the 14th century. They are not, however, accessible to non-Hindus, but small enough to admire from the outside. One path leads up to Pura Prajapati temple, used for cremations and burials by the Padangtegal village nearby, and flanked by a leafy field of headstones. Another path heads to Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal, the “death temple” used by the same villagers for ceremonies. And a third walkway goes over a medieval-looking stone bridge—seemingly held together by roots of banyan trees like a scene from The Lord of the Rings movie—to the Holy Bathing Temple. Also worth a look is the Community Art Exhibition under the bale pavilion, and check at the ticket offices about events and performances at the brand new amphitheater. Noteworthy for being well managed by the local community, the forest is also home to 115 species of rare plants used for religious and medicinal purposes. The main entrance is at the end of the road named after the sanctuary. Another gate, 200m (218yds) further east, is connected by a path (800m/874yds) to a third entrance that leads to the charming village of Nyuhkuning.

      Times Daily 8.30am–6pm Address Monkey Forest Road (Jalan Wanara Wana) Dress As you wish; no sarong/sash needed Getting There By foot from Ubud; on organized tours from elsewhere Tip Quieter with less hyper-active monkeys before 10am Add in Shopping along Jalan Hanoman and lunch in Nyuhkuning

      12 Gunung Kawi Rock Temples Majestic shrines chiselled into a solid stone cliff face

      Gunung Kawi has it all: massive rock sculptures, gushing streams, lush rice-terraces, caves dripping with water, and a riverside temple. And steep steps. Lots of them. More than 250, in fact. If you don’t make it all the way down, only 40 or 50 steps will lead you to exquisite views of padi fields flanking the Pakrisan River under the shadow of the mighty Gunung Agung mountain. The steps do eventually end at The Royal Monuments, four massive façades shaped like temples and somehow carved into 7-meter (23-ft) high niches within a cliff. They may have been built as a memorial for King Airlangga, a powerful Javanese king, some 1,000 years ago, but no one really knows for sure. Across a quaint bridge, Pura Tirta Gunung Kawi temple is dedicated to the all-important Goddess of Rice. At the back of the pond crammed with fish are five more royal tombs built directly opposite the ravine from the other four. Walking paths behind the temple lead to storage and cooking sheds, and then continue to a shrine facing a mossy cliff, a series of watery caves (once part of a monastery) and the best views of the whole complex. But before you explore the area too much further: remember all those steps on the way back! Then you can reward yourself at Kafe Kawi, a delightful restaurant only 10 steps down from the main entrance, which offers a varied menu, including healthy breakfasts (from 9am) and, of course, more superb views.

      Time Daily 7am–6pm Address 200m (218yds) from the main road through Tampaksiring Dress As you wish; sash/sarong included in entrance fee Getting There On many organized tours. From Ubud, bemo towards Gianyar, get off at the junction in Bedulu, then catch another to Tampaksiring. Ojek available at the site. Tips Better photos and fewer people before 9am. This shouldn’t be confused with Gunung Kawi in nearby Sebatu, which is also worth visiting (see page 46). Also nearby Walk up to Tirta Empul, or visit the other Gunung Kawi at Sebatu

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