Bali & Lombok Tuttle Travel Pack. Paul Greenway
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Once upon a time, there was a bored king who lived in eastern Bali but ruled this part of Lombok, and had an obsession with Gunung Rinjani… King Anak Agung Ngurah Gede Karang Asem built what was probably used as a summer palace in 1727. It was designed to pay homage to the might of Lombok’s only volcano, the omnipotent Rinjani, which he could see but no longer climb for his annual pilgrimage. (Although it is just possible the King may have also enjoyed watching young girls bathe in the pools.) The park features the Pura Kalasa temple, described on the billboard at the entrance as a “mini Rinjani”—which is a slight exaggeration considering the original is 3,726m (12,224ft) high. To complete the “Rinjani replica,” the Asem Pool is shaped (sort of) like the Danau Segara Anak crater lake that sits on top of Rinjani. But, perhaps, the King would be most displeased that the pool is now used by canoodling couples in paddle boats. Taman Narmada is such an attractive place to wander around and admire the fountains, ponds and flowers, to swim in the pools, to relax under large shady trees and to appreciate the architecture featuring Sasak, Javanese, Islamic, and Balinese designs. And you can shop for souvenirs in the stalls on the way out. Like most places in this region, you may have the place to yourself during the week, but half of Mataram seems to flock here on weekends and public holidays, and anyone with a white face (if you have one) may become the center of attraction. The market at the bemo stop at the entrance sells a more noteworthy selection of handicrafts than usual.
Times 7am–6pm daily Getting There Bemo from Senggigi to Kebun Roek terminal in Ampenan in Mataram; then another to the Narmada market directly opposite the park entrance. Otherwise, charter a car or taxi. Also nearby Pura Lingsar temple
CHAPTER 2
EXPLORING BALI & LOMBOK
Almost every conceivable type of attraction and activity is available on Bali and Lombok. But perhaps you’re only interested in shopping, surfing, and partying, or you just want to relax away from the crowds along Bali’s northern or eastern coasts or on Lombok. Possibly, you’re yearning to explore the villages and temples of Bali’s spiritual heartland from Ubud, or maybe climbing volcanoes, rafting rivers, and snorkeling reefs are your thing. Whatever your interests, this chapter provides detailed daily excursions (and some vital extra special sections) that includes all the information you need to know about where to go, how to get there, and what to see.
1 Southern Bali
2 Ubud
3 Bali’s East Coast
4 Bali’s Highlands & North Coast
5 The Nusa Islands
6 Western Lombok
7 Northern Lombok
8 Southern Lombok
EXPLORING SOUTHERN BALI
This epicenter for tourism has more to offer than many realize
Also see Sanur and Nusa Dua & Tanjung Benoa insets on the folded map
Sometime in the 1970s, the Bali Big Bang occurred and a malarial fishing village called Kuta quickly turned into one of the most popular tourist destinations on earth. Maybe 70 percent of visitors to Bali stay in, and rarely venture from, the southern beaches. Although this region continues to expand unabated, among the malls and resorts, homestays and tattoo parlors, there is village life where temples abound and markets flourish.
Day 1: Kuta Beach
Bali's fabled tourist Mecca
Begin your exploration on foot after breakfast, but if shopping is your primary interest there’s no point starting until the stores open at 9am. But remember: walking around Kuta/Legian is rarely pleasant and never easy: pram-pushers will find it impossible, and dual-tasking walker/texters have been known to disappear down drain holes. Take your time, and don’t forget that taxis are very common and cheap.
The best place to start walking is the center of the original Kuta, where Jalan Legian starts at the corner with Jalan Pantai Kuta. This intersection is still known as “bemo corner,” although this form of public transport disappeared from Kuta years ago. About 200m (218yds) east, a traditional produce market is set up every morning, but understandably dissipates before the traffic starts snarling at 8am. Continuing along Jalan Pantai Kuta towards the beach, Kuta Square is dominated by the old-fashioned Matahari department store, but is outclassed these days by the massive Discovery Shopping Center 800m (874yds) south along Jalan Dewi Sartika in Tuban. Easy to spot just south of the Matahari, the Kuta Art Market is a misnomer as most stalls sell nothing but T-shirts, sunglasses, and watches—unless phallic-shaped bottle-openers count as “art.” The adjacent Pura Dalem Pakendungan temple proves that some normality can still prevail amongst the Kuta chaos.
Further south, parts of Tuban are reminiscent of a fishing village and worth detouring along the delightful, shady path as far as the airport fence (see Best Walks on page 112). The beaches are a bit scruffy, especially where hotels have no vested interest, but noteworthy because they’re set up for the Balinese and Indonesian tourists, not foreigners. If you head south along the path through Tuban for about 1km (0.62 miles), you will come across Pura Dalem Tunon, the most elegant beachside temple between Tanah Lot and Ulu Watu. In contrast is Waterbom Park, an immense assortment of pools, slides, and rides more popular, it seems, with adults than kids (see page 93). It’s along Jalan Dewi Sartika, 350m (382yds) south of the art market.
Only meters south from where Jalan Pantai Kuta meets the beach is the Sea Turtle Information Center, obvious from the giant statue of a penyu outside. It offers a limited display about their laudable efforts to conserve these graceful creatures. Continuing north along the beach road is Pura Batu Bolong temple, incongruously located between the familiar “golden arches” and the massive new Beachwalk shopping and entertainment complex, which is particularly popular with kids (see page 93).
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