The largest lake in Bali is nestled inside the island’s most active volcano. Most stop along the crater rim of Gunung Batur to photo the lava-coated slopes, pig out at the buffet table and curse a hawker, but few realize there’s much more to enjoy inside the volcano. The road from Penelokan leads to the main lakeside village of Toya Bungkah, where three places offer pools of spring-fed hot water and contrasting cold. Each shares the same sources of water, features similarly magnificent views and provides massages (for an extra payment), but facilities differ markedly. And, despite claims, none provide spas with any “healing powers.” The public baths (also known as Tamba) are squeezed between the two resorts. While more palatable after recent renovations, the pools are small, not private, and smell of sulphur. There’s also nowhere to sit and relax, but it is the cheapest option (Rp50,000). Next door, Batur Natural Hot Spring (0366-51193; baturhotspring.com) charges Rp120,000 (including towel, snack, drink, shower, and locker); Rp160,000 including lunch. The uninviting car park belies an attractive, spacious setting, but there are few places to lounge about and it caters mainly for Indonesians, so you may be the only foreigner there. Visiting the lakeside restaurant doesn’t require a ticket, however, and bicycles can be rented. Toya Devasya (0366-51204; toyadevasya.com) is a luxurious Seminyak-style resort with a massive cold-water swimming pool and two hot-water baths. It’s excellent value at Rp150,000 (including towel, drink, shower, and locker), and with a pool-bar and plethora of lounge chairs it un-ashamedly caters for spoilt westerners. Onsite there are also some pricey villas and a lakeside restaurant called The Lakeside Restaurant.

      Times All three open 7am–7pm daily Getting There To crater rim, bemo from Gianyar, Semarapura, or Singaraja, or Perama shuttle bus (minimum of two) from Kuta, Sanur, or Ubud; then ojek to Toya Bungkah and the springs Tip There are several places to stay and eat in Toya Bungkah, but places in Kedisan are further from the incessant truck traffic.

      15 From Ujung to Amed, East Bali Weave around the coast through tiny fishing villages

      The driest part of Bali is not the most scenic, but the landscapes and views are quite unique. And now that the road hugging the far eastern coast has been fully paved, the trip is far more enjoyable. The road is still windy and narrow, however, and there’s no public transport, but you will be rewarded with some of the island’s best panoramas, and villages where adults smile and children wave at the rare sight of a white face. From Padangbai, avoid Amlapura and its infuriating one-way streets by turning right at the junction to Pantai Jasri and then almost immediately turn left towards the Amlapura-Ujung road. After exploring the water palace at Ujung, follow the road markers to “sry” (Seraya) and then “clk” (Culik). The picturesque route is dotted with villagers eking out a subsistence living from fishing, logging, and selling the sort of rocks that line paths in the resorts down south. The road heads inland to Seraya where an idyllic hilltop temple offers views of the village and coastline. Soon you’ll be winding your way along scarred, terraced mountain slopes where attempts have been made, with limited success, to plant trees and grow vegetables in the harsh, arid landscape. Then the fishing villages appear. The most dramatic spot to photograph these is near the “clk 17” marker, where an abandoned lookout is perched on a rocky promontory. From “clk 13,” a series of villages—known collectively as Amed—starts, but the beaches are disappointing: always gray, mostly rocky and often lined with fishing vessels. The road then heads inland with more oh-my-god-stop-the-car! views—this time of Mount Agung. At the dreary T-junction hub of Culik, the road continues to Singaraja, via Tulamben, or veers left past sudden valleys of lush rice fields towards Tirtagangga.

      Getting There Shuttle bus (minimum of two) from Lovina or Padangbai to northern Amed, via Culik—not via Ujung Tip Time your trip for a seafood lunch along Amed Also nearby Tirtagangga water palace

      16 Snorkeling Lombok’s Gili Islands Some of the world’s best diving right under your nose

      Imagine three droplets of golden sands surrounded by turquoise seas where the only form of transport is bicycle and cidomo (horse and cart). But for many, the major attractions are underwater: 3,500 species of marine life—double the number found at Australia’s Great Barrier Reef—including coral fish of every imaginable hue, as well as harmless sharks and giant (protected) turtles. Although some reefs have been partially destroyed by boats and fish-bombing, some of the coral and marine life is even accessible from the beach, so snorkelers can explore the sort of underwater delights normally only available to those with tanks. Masks, snorkels and fins are cheap and easy to rent and stall-owners should be able to point you to the best locations. Otherwise, an understandably popular alternative is a trip on a glass bottomed boat (only Rp120,000 per person, including lunch and snorkeling gear) which takes you to the best spots around all three islands to see and swim among turtles, clams, fish, and coral. There are also many wonderful places for do-it-yourself snorkeling just offshore. On Gili Trawangan, try in front of the Bale Sampan hotel (north-east coast) and at Turtle Point (north)—but don’t venture too far because currents can be deceptively strong. Very close to Gili Air’s appealing beaches, snorkeling is excellent near the Blue Marlin Dive center (north-east coast), Hotel Gili Air (north) and, especially, Air Wall (west). The best spots from the beaches of Gili Meno are Meno Wall (north-west coast), which abounds with turtles, while amazing marine life can be observed opposite the Royal Reef Resort (east), Ana Bungalows (north), and the abandoned Bounty Resort (south-west).

      Getting There Refer

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