The National Trails. Paddy Dillon
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in the deaths of 34 people. Also note, after covering the distance from Porlock to Lynmouth, that in January 1899 the Lynmouth lifeboat had to be towed the same distance, in the other direction, during a storm, before it could be launched to aid the stricken vessel Forrest Hall off Hurlstone Point.
DAY 3 LYNMOUTH TO COMBE MARTIN 21KM (13 MILES)
After climbing high above Lynmouth, walkers follow a fine path across a steep slope and suddenly reach the Valley of the Rocks. Amazingly complex rocky outcrops have delighted visitors for decades, so expect the place to be busy. Walk down the road to Lee Abbey, then follow a path across an exceedingly steep and wooded slope at Woody Bay. The precarious ‘hanging’ oak woods, a refuge for red deer, are preserved as a nature reserve. Cross Hollow Brook at a little waterfall, then turn round Highveer Point to enter a deep and steep-sided valley at Heddon’s Mouth. There is access inland to the popular Hunter’s Inn.
Castle Rock rises high above the sea as the coast path heads into the Valley of the Rocks
After climbing steeply from Heddon’s Mouth the coast path makes its way towards Holdstone Down, where it suddenly drops into another steep-sided valley at Sherrycombe. The climb uphill leads to the summit of the Great Hangman, which at 318m (1043ft) is the highest point on the entire South West Coast Path. Enjoy the views inland to Exmoor National Park, as the park is left behind on the descent from the Little Hangman to Combe Martin. The village proclaims itself to be the second longest village in England, which begs the question, which is the longest village in England?
DAY 4 COMBE MARTIN TO WOOLACOMBE 20KM (12½ MILES)
Take care following the complex and convoluted coast path from Combe Martin to Ilfracombe, or you could find yourself walking round Widmouth Head, which is not part of the route. There is a bird’s-eye view of Ilfracombe on the descent from Hillsborough. St Nicholas’ Church on Lantern Hill dates from the 14th century, but the town largely developed as a 19th-century resort following the arrival of the railway, now long closed.
Use the popular Torrs Walk to leave the town, looking to see how it has been hacked from the bedrock in places as it works its way round the cliffs. On the descent to Lee Bay a detour could include Lee village, just inland. A fine stretch of cliff coast continues to Bull Point and its lighthouse, then later there is a marked change of direction while turning round Morte Point. The little resort of Woolacombe, which developed from a farming settlement, is reached, with its most notable feature – a broad, golden, sandy surfers’ beach.
DAY 5 WOOLACOMBE TO BRAUNTON 25KM (15½ MILES)
Walkers who have found the first few days of the South West Coast Path a struggle will be pleased to enjoy a much easier walk today. While it is possible to walk the length of Woolacombe Sands, the route actually stays onshore among scrubby dunes. Leaving Putsborough Sands, a low-lying cliff coast is followed around Baggy Point to Croyde Bay. Another popular golden strand is passed, then the route climbs above a busy coastal road and cuts across Saunton Down to reach the village of Saunton. Walkers who are struggling, or looking for opportunities to short cut, will be sorely tempted at this point to follow a road or catch a bus to Braunton. The coast path, however, wanders through an area of flowery dunes and scrub woodland, designated as the Braunton Burrows National Nature Reserve. At the very tip of the point, the village of Appledore is close to hand, but will not be reached for another couple of days by those who faithfully follow every part of the coast path. Head inland beside the tidal River Caen, alongside Braunton Marshes, to reach Braunton itself.
DAY 6 BRAUNTON TO WESTWARD HO! 38KM (23½ MILES)
Prepare for level, hard-surface walking along a couple of old railway trackbeds that have been converted into footpath/cycleways. This may seem like a long day’s walk, but it is always easy, and can be covered in two days if preferred. (Some walkers actually skip the whole day and catch the bus!) Follow the first old railway trackbed from Braunton to Barnstaple, passing Wrafton Marsh and an airfield at Chivenor, before passing a new bridge over the River Taw. Barnstaple has a long and complex history, having been a 10th-century Saxon stronghold against the Danes, and made a borough by King Alfred. In 1068 the town fell to the Normans, then received a succession of royal charters. Although it seems far inland, it developed a fine shipbuilding and naval tradition. Cross the Long Bridge to leave the town.
The Railway Carriage Visitor Centre and old signal box at East-the-Water near Bideford
Another old railway trackbed leads out of Braunton, passing marshes on the southern banks of the River Taw. Fremington Quay was once described as ‘the busiest port between Bristol and Land’s End’ and its old railway station now houses the Fremington Quay Heritage Centre, which has a lookout tower for birdwatchers. Officially, the coast path follows the fringe of the marshland to Instow, but many walkers prefer to stay on the trackbed to reach the village. Depending on seasonal and tidal restrictions, there might be a small ferry operating between Instow and Appledore, otherwise walkers have to keep following the trackbed onwards, crossing the River Torridge at Bideford. In this case, follow the coast path back alongside the river to reach Appledore, another place with a notable shipbuilding tradition. Continue around the dunes of the Northam Burrows Country Park to reach Westward Ho! The resort is named after the novel by Charles Kingsley and always includes the exclamation mark.
DAY 7 WESTWARD HO! TO CLOVELLY 18KM (11½ MILES)
Easy walking beyond Westward Ho! quickly gives way to a roller-coaster path along a crumbling cliff line. Expect short diversions whenever a cliff fall has taken place. After passing Peppercombe a short detour inland to Horn’s Cross could be contemplated if its pub is needed. The undulating coast path becomes more wooded, and a descent into a little valley reveals the village of Buck’s Mills, with the slightly larger village of Buck’s Cross lying a little further inland.
The route runs inside or alongside Buck’s Valley Woods and later joins a fine track known as the Hobby Drive. This well-graded track slices across the steep, wooded slopes and eventually reaches the top part of Clovelly. Although the coast path doesn’t actually enter the village, no one should pass by without walking down the high street. If you are spending the night here there is ample opportunity to explore, and once the crowds of tourists depart, the village slips back into a slumber. The steep, cobbled road is barred to traffic, so sleds laden with provisions have to be dragged to the houses, or donkeys are engaged to draw larger loads up and down through the village. The houses, dating from the 14th century, seem stacked so precariously on the slope that a sneeze would send them crashing down into the sea.
DAY 8 CLOVELLY TO HARTLAND QUAY 17KM (10½ MILES)
Paths beyond Clovelly either run alongside or inside woodlands, then comes a zigzag descent to Mill Mouth. The coast path negotiates woods and pasture, rising and falling, before levelling out in fields high above the cliffs. Looking ahead, a prominent ‘radome’ can be spotted, which is quite close to Hartland Point. The rocky point and its lighthouse mark a significant change of direction, as the coast path swings suddenly southwards. Hartland Point used to be described as ‘furthest from the railways’, and in poor weather it can seem very bleak and far removed from civilisation, though the scenery is dramatic.
Leaving Hartland Point, one of the most difficult stretches of the coast path begins, featuring several ascents and descents. The first descent is from Upright Cliff, followed by a climb above Damehole Point. Later, a stone bridge crosses the Abbey river, recalling the long-forgotten site of Hartland Abbey that lay further inland. For a brief moment an arch in an old stone tower set behind the next cliff frames a view of Stoke church, then the route descends to Hartland Quay. The old quay, neglected and battered by the sea, crumbled away. A few weather-beaten buildings remain, including the Hartland Quay Hotel. Think twice before spurning lodgings, as the cliff path becomes even more severe beyond this point.