The National Trails. Paddy Dillon
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route exactly as marked. Beyond Ligger Point, most walkers will stroll along the sands of Perran Beach, but the coast path actually crosses the steep slope above the beach. Either way, the busy little resort of Perranporth is reached at the battered rocky headland of Droskyn Point.
A razor-edged ridge is passed at Ralph’s Cupboard on the way out of Portreath (Day 17)
DAY 16 PERRANPORTH TO PORTREATH 20KM (12½ MILES)
Bustling Perranporth is left behind as the coast path continues along bleak and rugged cliffs, passing old mine shafts, crumbling engine houses and gaunt chimneys. Around St Agnes there was once a thriving mining area, and anyone wishing to know more about the industry should visit the Blue Hills Tin Streams. Exhibits show how tin ore was crushed, washed and smelted. Because of its past industry, this area, together with other places along the coast to St Just, has been designated a world heritage site. After passing Trevaunance Cove, where the old harbour has been destroyed by storms, the trail runs round rugged St Agnes Head and later drops down to Chapel Porth. Paths climbing direct from this point are dangerous, so head inland as signposted and pick up the cliff path to Porthtowan. Walk from the Unicorn to the Beach Hotel to get back onto the cliffs, and pass a landmark flue chimney. Walk beside an extensive MOD property on Nancekuke Common until diverted onto a road at Lighthouse Hill. Walk down into Portreath, whose little harbour is made of stout stonework.
DAY 17 PORTREATH TO ST IVES 29KM (18 MILES)
The cliff scenery beyond Portreath is remarkable, especially around Ralph’s Cupboard, where there is an impressive razor-edged cliff. There are several short and steep ascents and descents along the Carvannel Downs and Reskajeague Downs, then the coast path runs close to a road. Deadman’s Cove and Hell’s Mouth sound fraught with danger, then the trail pulls away from the road to go round Navax Point and Godrevy Point. Godrevy Island is crowned with a lighthouse. The rough and rocky part of the day is over, and the rest is easy, though it is still a long way to St Ives.
At low water a broad strand sweeps round St Ives Bay, and most will be happy to walk along it. The coast path actually weaves about among the extensive dunes of the Towans, which takes longer to negotiate. The tidal mouth of the River Hayle cannot be forded and there is no ferry, so walkers either follow roads to Lelant, or sneak onto a bus or train to avoid the traffic. An intricate coast path runs from Lelant to Carbis Bay and into St Ives. The town’s name is derived from St Ia – a 5th-century Irish missionary and daughter of a chieftain. St Ives Head protects a natural harbour and this was developed in the 18th century. The old fishing port is now a thriving tourist resort and a notable arts centre. Spend time exploring its poky alleyways.
DAY 18 ST IVES TO PENDEEN WATCH 22KM (13½ MILES)
Some of the most spectacular and dramatic parts of the South West Coast Path are found between St Ives and Penzance, but the way is often quite arduous and may take longer than you expect. There are so many granite headlands and cliff-girt coves that it is easy to lose track of progress. In fair weather or foul, this is a remarkable stretch, but facilities are few. It is necessary to walk all the way to Pendour Cove before there is access inland to the bleak little village of Zennor and its Tinner’s Arms. Views ahead take in the humped promontory of Gurnard’s Head, but paths are rough and narrow.
The derelict engine houses of old mines are passed near Gurnard’s Head. Beyond Porthmeor Cove, the ancient fortification of Bosigran Castle can be visited, and the cliffs nearby are popular with rock climbers. Chair Carn is a tower of rock surmounted by a huge boulder, which looks like the work of Cyclopean masons. After a difficult stretch around Portheras Cove, a little sign may invite wayfarers up to Pendeen Manor Farm for cream teas; otherwise keep walking to pass the landmark lighthouse at Pendeen Watch. This will probably be far enough for most walkers, and a small range of services can be found just inland at Pendeen, among the extensive ruins of old tin mines. Old chimneys, engine houses and winding gear can be seen, and the tin mining theme is explored at Geevor Tin Mine, which worked as late as 1990. Tin was first dug so deep that mines simply flooded, but once mighty pumping engines were developed, ore veins were exploited far beneath the seabed.
The Armed Knight is a pierced granite islet off the coast at Land’s End in Cornwall
DAY 19 PENDEEN WATCH TO PORTHCURNO 26KM (16 MILES)
Pendeen’s mining landscape gives way to breathtaking, beautiful and dramatic scenery on the way to the prominent hump of Cape Cornwall. Mining remains abound, but they have either been restored, such as the Levant Beam Engine, or merge into the landscape, such as the Old Crowns Mine. Cape Cornwall was once given all the accolades now bestowed on Land’s End, though it remains a popular place. Cross the Cot Valley to pick up the coast path at Porth Nanven, then stay above the cliffs all the way to rocky Aire Point. Either stay ashore, or if the tide is out, walk on the beach all the way round Whitesands Bay to reach Sennen Cove. This little fishing village is often a tangle of nets, as well as a centre for arts and crafts.
A short and busy walk leads to Land’s End, where hordes of people might be found in high summer. The granite headland is wonderfully scenic, but is sadly attached to something resembling a theme park. However, there is a feeling that a significant point has been turned, and the crowds are quickly left behind in favour of remarkable rocky scenes, such as the pierced granite islet known as the Armed Knight. The coast path is almost level and quite easy as it wanders round Pordenack Point to reach Mill Bay. Pass the National Coastwatch Station on Gwennap Head, as well as a couple of curious ‘daymarks’, before walking down to the tiny settlement of Porthgwarra. A short cliff path leads onwards, passing the wonderfully romantic Minack Theatre, built into the cliffs near the village of Porthcurno.
DAY 20 PORTHCURNO TO PENZANCE 18KM (11½ MILES)
The rugged cliff path passes Logan Rock, which can be explored by making a detour; otherwise continue round Cribba Head and drop down to Penberth Cove. Boats are often hauled out onto a paved granite ramp. The path climbs a rugged, bushy slope before dropping down to Porthguarnon. Good views take in blocky cliffs and the path becomes broad and grassy before dropping down to St Loy’s Cove, which has an astoundingly bouldery beach. Climb onto the cliffs to pass Boscawen Point and pass above a lighthouse at Tater-du, where the path is flanked by hedgerows. Refreshments are available at lovely Lamorna Cove, then the path continues round Carn-du and passes the Kemyel Crease Nature Reserve.
A road leads down to Mousehole, where houses huddle round the harbour, and fishing has given way to arts and crafts. The last native Cornish speaker, Dolly Penteath, died here 200 years ago. The language has since been revived, particularly in this part of Cornwall. A long road walk leads from Mousehole to Newlyn and Penzance – easily the most built-up stretch of the South West Coast Path so far. Spanish vessels from France raided all three settlements in 1595. For centuries most visitors arrived from the sea, but in the late 19th century, when the railway reached Penzance, the town began to develop a thriving tourist industry. Naturally, every facility is readily to hand, and many who choose to walk only part of the coast path decide to make Penzance the start or finish of their route.
DAY 21 PENZANCE TO PORTHLEVEN 23KM (14 MILES)
The coast path runs along a sea wall, parallel to the railway out of Penzance. When the railway heads inland, the coast path continues to Marazion, an ancient settlement known as early as 308BC. St Michael’s Mount rises offshore and can be reached by boat or on foot, depending on the state of the tides. It was crowned with a church in the 12th century, which was the object of a pilgrimage, while a castle was built in the 14th century. A road has to be followed inland from Marazion until the coast path can be regained at Trenow Cove. Pass the little village of Perranuthnoe, where there is a sandy beach, and follow the cliffs to Cudden Point and Prussia Cove.
The path passes above wonderful golden beaches at Kenneggy Sands and Praa Sands – the first being quiet and the second usually quite busy. Look out for layers of clay and peat at Praa Sands, where there was once fenland, before it was eroded by the sea and covered by wind-blown sand. Walk along the cliffs, passing old mine