The National Trails. Paddy Dillon
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twin-spout waterfall at Speke’s Mill Mouth near Hartland Quay
DAY 9 HARTLAND QUAY TO BUDE 25KM (15½ MILES)
This is one of the most dramatic and scenic stretches on the entire South West Coast Path, but also one of the toughest. Leaving Hartland Quay, the route passes a couple of splendid waterfalls spilling into the sea, then embarks on a monstrous roller coaster, climbing high onto the cliffs, only to drop steeply down towards the sea again, time after time. Steps and zigzag paths help to ease the gradient, but walkers should take things slowly and steadily all day. Just before leaving Devon, the path passes Ronald Duncan’s Hut, named after the writer who once sought solitude there. The view from the hut looks across Marsland Mouth into Cornwall.
A bilingual sign reading ‘Cornwall/Kernow’ marks the entry to Cornwall, and the relentless nature of the steep ascents and descents continues unabated. Walkers who need a break from the rigours of the route can detour inland to the Bush Inn at Morwenstow for a break. The coast path, meanwhile, passes Hawker’s Hut, which was used as a retreat by an eccentric vicar of the village. After negotiating some particularly rugged parts of the route, the undulations become less severe, and by the time Duckpool and Sandy Mouth are passed, the worst is over. A gentler stretch along lower cliffs leads finally to Bude, where there are broad expanses of sand. Head inland towards the town to cross the first bridge, a stone footbridge, over the River Neet. A small museum explains how this was a thriving little port, especially in the late 19th century.
DAY 10 BUDE TO BOSCASTLE HARBOUR 27KM (16½ MILES)
Compass Point, just outside Bude, is crowned with the octagonal Storm Tower, based on the Temple of the Winds at Athens. While cliff coasts can be dangerous in stormy weather, the route south of Bude is never far from a road on the way past Widemouth Bay and Millook. Well-wooded cliffs at Dizzard give way to a succession of ascents and descents on the way to the tiny village of Crackington Haven. This area is often busy with geology students, and the cliffs feature colourful, contorted bands of rock. Climb to the headland of Cambeak, then climb again over High Cliff, which is the highest cliff on this stretch of coast at 223m (732ft). There are some steep and rugged slopes on the way to Boscastle Harbour, and the village remains hidden until you reach Penally Point.
Boscastle Harbour is a splendidly sheltered inlet, but so narrow and crooked that approaches in stormy weather were fraught with danger. Large boats were towed in by rowing boats, with additional steerage provided by men onshore using ropes. On 16 August 2004 a colossal flood swept through Boscastle Harbour, and events were relayed live via television as the disaster unfolded. People were plucked from rooftops by helicopter, and while no one was killed, some properties had to be demolished and rebuilt afterwards.
DAY 11 BOSCASTLE HARBOUR TO PORT ISAAC 22KM (13½ MILES)
The coast path beyond Boscastle features several rugged and attractive little headlands and coves. The Rocky Valley is particularly scenic, but most walkers will find themselves looking ahead to spot legendary Tintagel Castle on Tintagel Head, reputed to be the birthplace of King Arthur. The promontory has at least 2000 years of history behind it, and is undoubtedly a splendid strategic site, reached by crossing a footbridge over a crumbling neck of land. The castle has been in ruins since the 16th century. Nearby Tintagel youth hostel also enjoys a fine setting close to the cliff edge.
Slate quarrying has cut into the cliffs over the past five centuries, and broken cast-off slates are incorporated into the zigzag-patterned ‘curzyway’ drystone walls and embankments that surround nearby fields. After dropping down to Trebarwith Strand and its pub, note that there are no refreshments until distant Port Isaac, and the coast path includes strenuous ascents and descents. Port Gaverne and Port Isaac are villages that have gradually turned from fishing to tourism, but fishing still continues and the day’s catch can be inspected in an odd-shaped building beside the little beach.
Attractive Rocky Valley is passed on the way from Boscastle Harbour to Tintagel Head
DAY 12 PORT ISAAC TO PADSTOW 19KM (12 MILES)
Shortly after leaving Port Isaac, a steep-sided little valley is crossed at Pine Haven, then the coast path runs from Varley Head to Kellan Head to reach Port Quin. A tiny settlement stands at the head of the narrow inlet, then a splendid stretch of undulating coast path hugs the low cliffs all the way round Port Quin Bay and Carnweather Point. A complete circuit is made around Pentire Point, then Padstow Bay and the tidal River Camel have to be negotiated. Follow the coast path around Polzeath, then trudge along soft and sandy paths around little Brea Hill.
A ferry runs from Rock to Padstow all year, except winter Sundays, and the nearest bridge is far inland at Wadebridge. Always check ferry crossings in advance around the South West Coast Path, taking particular note when several need to be used in quick succession later on the long trail. Padstow’s narrow streets are full of charm, and often full of tourists too. Spend the evening exploring if staying here. St Petroc’s Church dates from the 6th century. Sir Walter Raleigh lived at the Court House when he was Warden of Cornwall, while Prideaux Place is a fine Elizabethan manor house.
Mother Ivey’s Bay, with its golden sandy beach and distant lifeboat station
DAY 13 PADSTOW TO PORTHCOTHAN PORTHCOTHAN 22KM (13½ MILES)
Fine headlands and sandy bays are passed one after another during this day’s walk. The coast path from Padstow passes a sandy beach at Harbour Cove, then turns round Stepper Point to leave Padstow Bay. Pass the deep crater of Pepper Hole and walk round the rocky cove of Butter Hole. The little villages of Trevone and Harlyn offer refreshments, and if you reach the latter at high water, you may have to take a break and wait for the water to recede before you continue along the beach. Mother Ivey’s Bay is wonderfully scenic, with its low cliffs and lumpy outcrops rising from the golden strand. A lifeboat station is located at the far end of the bay, but the coast path detours inland before that point, passing a lighthouse on Trevose Head. Booby’s Bay and Constantine Bay feature golden sands, then lots of little headlands are passed before the route reaches Porthcothan.
DAY 14 PORTHCOTHAN TO NEWQUAY 18KM (11½ MILES)
The low cliffs beyond Porthcothan are broken by the narrow inlet of Porth Mear, and the scenery is lovely throughout. All of a sudden, after turning round Park Head, popular Bedruthan Steps are reached and there are likely to be a lot of people around. The beach is studded with a series of huge and highly individual rock stacks, named, from north to south: Diggory’s Island, Queen Bess Rock, Samaritan Rock, Redcove Island, Pendarves Island and Carnewas Island. Enjoy wonderful views before walking round Trenance Point to reach the villages of Trenance and Mawgan Porth.
A climb to Berryl’s Point leads back onto the cliffs, where the next break occurs at Watergate Bay – there is a huddle of hotels here. Keep walking along the cliffs to reach Trevelgue Head, which is actually an island connected to the Cornish coast by a footbridge. The coast path negotiates the suburbs of Newquay, which sit high on the cliffs, then after a walk through the town centre the harbour is reached. The original settlement here was called Towanblistra, where a ‘new quay’ was built in the 16th century. The town developed as a cargo port with a thriving fishing trade, with tourism becoming important following the arrival of the railway. Newquay’s ‘surf scene’ has grown from nothing to assume great importance to the town in recent years.
DAY 15 NEWQUAY TO PERRANPORTH 17KM (10½ MILES)
A couple of little headlands are visited on the way out of Newquay, then the long and narrow tidal inlet of the Gannel is reached. At low water there is a tidal footbridge, while at high water a ferry runs from the Fern Pit Café. If neither of these is available, it’s a long walk round to Crantock. The coast path turns grassy Pentire Point West and passes a little sandy inlet at Porth Joke. Kelsey Head gives way to a beach walk round Holywell Bay, where the village of Holywell offers refreshments. The path passes the Penhale army training