The National Trails. Paddy Dillon
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A map of southwest England reveals a complex and convoluted coastline between Minehead, in Somerset, and Poole harbour, in Dorset. The crinkly coast adds up to a considerable distance, and where numerous ascents and descents have also to be negotiated, requires a lot of effort to complete. This is no beach walk, but often involves steep paths over rugged cliffs, tight zigzag paths and innumerable steps. Walkers often cross deep, steep-sided, wooded ravines, which separate remote and rocky headlands, and there are also extensive areas of dunes and pebbly storm beaches. Of course, there are also plenty of villages tucked into hidden coves, along with a number of bustling seaside resorts and even a major city. This is an immensely rich and varied coastline with an intensely absorbing history and heritage.
The South West Coast Path was opened in stages between 1973 and 1978, though from the outset the South West Coast Path Association has lobbied tirelessly for improvements, so there are mini openings of short stretches to this day. The route starts at Minehead and traverses Exmoor National Park, then along the rest of its length there are designated areas of outstanding natural beauty, heritage coasts and two extensive world heritage sites. Many stretches of the coast are owned by the National Trust, or preserved as national nature reserves. With this level of protection, it simply has to be good, and no other stretch of English coast enjoys so much attention.
Obviously, walkers who wish to complete the South West Coast Path in one fell swoop will have to walk every day for six or seven weeks. The alternative is to complete it over a period of time, one or two weeks at a stretch.
Bear in mind that while all facilities are in full swing in the summer months, accommodation options are drastically reduced in the winter, and some of the ferries that provide essential links along the route may be withdrawn. Careful planning is the key to success along this trail, but even at the height of summer, when there is most pressure on facilities, tourist information centres work exceptionally hard to find accommodation for those who need it. If you choose to camp, you don’t really need to carry cooking equipment, as this is a trail where there are shops and cafés at regular intervals.
DAY 1 MINEHEAD TO PORLOCK WEIR 15KM (9½ MILES)
The long journey starts at a monument on the promenade at Minehead, then unexpectedly heads uphill and inland, well away from the coast. Walk across North Hill and Selworthy Beacon, climbing as high as 290m (950ft) to enjoy views over Exmoor National Park. There is a ‘Rugged Alternative Coast Path’ signposted, which runs closer to the sea, is rather more arduous, but very scenic. It links with the main coast path later on Bossington Hill above Hurlstone Point. Views stretch along the coast to Foreland Point and across the Bristol Channel to south Wales.
The route originally traversed a shingle ridge from Bossington to Porlock Weir, but this was breached during a storm in 1996 and walkers must now wander through fields and marshes behind the ridge. Porlock and Porlock Weir provide well for walkers, though both villages appear quite early in the day. Stronger walkers could continue to Lynmouth or Lynton, but at the risk of burning themselves out too early in this long trek. Better to take things easy, settle into a sustainable pace and aim for a successful completion in due course.
DAY 2 PORLOCK WEIR TO LYNMOUTH 20KM (12½ MILES)
Start on the Worthy Combe Toll Road, then follow paths and tracks through woods to reach Culbone church. A choice of routes is available: either walk on a wooded slope close to the sea, or follow paths and farm tracks at a higher level, until both routes meet again on Sugarloaf Hill. Shortly afterwards, in remarkably mixed woodlands, there is access to County Gate and Exmoor National Park Visitor Centre. Somerset gives way to Devon and the coast path finally leaves the woods and traverses a steep and rugged slope on the way to Foreland Point, which is the most northerly point in Devon.
Don’t be drawn off-route to the lighthouse, but turn Foreland Point and stay high on the coast path. There is easy access to the tiny village of Countisbury, which has a pub, but most walkers will be happy to start the descent towards Lynmouth. If you have organised accommodation here, it is a good idea to know exactly where you are heading. Lynmouth, naturally, is down by the sea, while Lynton is stacked high up a steep and wooded slope. A cliff lift links both places. Note the Lynmouth Flood Memorial Centre, recalling