The National Trails. Paddy Dillon
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the Udder Rock. The coast path has a number of ascents and descents on the way to Chapel Cliff, then there is a sudden view of Polperro, crammed into a narrow valley stretching inland from its little harbour. It is a wonderfully atmospheric place, looking like a genuine haunt of smugglers, and there is a Museum of Smuggling and Fishing. Have a look at the fish-landing area, and cross a river at the curious, 16th-century House on Props.
DAY 29 POLPERRO TO PORTWRINKLE 20KM (12½ MILES)
Leave Polperro by way of the Warren and follow an easy path round to Talland Bay. The path becomes more difficult, but also more attractive, as it turns round the next headland and St George’s Island comes into view. The attractive little town of Looe comes in two parts – West Looe and East Looe, with a tidal river between them. Cross a bridge to reach busier East Looe and consider a visit to the Old Guidhall Gaol and Museum. There are occasional boat trips out to St George’s Island, managed as a nature reserve.
A walk along East Cliff leads away from the town to Millendreath Beach. The route heads inland through woods, and later follows a road past the entrance to the Monkey Sanctuary. Descend through fields as signposted to reach Seaton. Follow the road through Seaton to reach neighbouring Downderry, as walking along the beach isn’t recommended. A fine cliff path leads onwards to Portwrinkle, which has a tiny harbour that is completely dry at low water. Note: if planning to stay overnight, there is only a small range of services.
A view of Mevagissey seen from a small park above the harbour (Day 26)
DAY 30 PORTWRINKLE TO PLYMOUTH 22KM (13½ MILES)
This is the last day’s walk on the coast of Cornwall, and there is a military firing range at Tregantle Fort. If firing is taking place, then walk round by road. If the range is open to walkers, as it is during August and on alternate weekends, then follow the path through as directed. Freathy is a peculiar settlement made of highly individual cabins scattered across a steep slope, and the coast path weaves about between them. A grassy track leads onwards, then the coast path climbs round Rame Head, where it is worth making a short detour to have a look at St Michael’s Chapel, built in 1397. The route continues to Penlee Point, then drops down to Cawsand and Kingsand. Watch out for a house near the post office, which bears the words ‘Devon/Corn’, where the old county boundary once ran through the building.
Follow the coast path as signposted to reach Mount Edgcumbe Country Park. Based around the demesne of Mount Edgcumbe House, this has a number of interesting features and is well worth exploring. A ferry runs across the Sound from Cremyll to Admiral’s Hard at Plymouth in Devon.
DAY 31 PLYMOUTH TO WEMBURY BEACH 22KM (13½ MILES)
In the past, it was common for walkers to catch a bus through Plymouth to avoid the built-up parts of the city and get straight back onto the coast path at Turnchapel. This is now to be discouraged, since the city has made a splendid effort to tidy up its part of the South West Coast Path, so that the Plymouth Waterfront Walkway is presented as a celebration and showcase for the city’s heritage. Sculptures and interesting artistic features have been installed, along with plenty of information plaques along the way. Keep an eye open to spot ‘acorn’ markers on lampposts, or set into the pavement, to keep track of the trail. Explorations are greatly enhanced if you obtain a booklet about the route in advance.
Looking from Wembury Point to the pyramidal islet of Great Mew Stone
To briefly summarise, the route runs through the Royal William Yard and passes the Royal Marines Barracks. Millbay Docks are passed on the way to the Hoe, where Smeaton’s Tower stands on a fine green. Don’t miss the Mayflower Steps and Barbican on the way to the National Marine Aquarium. Later, a huge navigation beacon has been transformed into an enormous marker post for the South West Coast Path. There is an industrial interlude at Cattedown and a busy road leads to the head of Pomphlett Lake. Wander through the suburbs and pass Radford Castle on the way to Turnchapel. Turn round the end of Mount Batten Point to reach pleasant green spaces at Jennycliff.
The Plymouth Waterfront Walkway ends at Jennycliff, with the South West Coast Path continuing along low cliffs to Staddon Point and Bovisand Bay. Walk all the way round rugged Wembury Point, admiring the pyramidal peak of the Great Mew Stone out to sea. An easy path runs to Wembury Beach, and walkers are advised to spend the evening studying ferry timetables and tide tables, or onward progress to Salcombe could be very awkward.
A view of the Hoe in Plymouth, seen from the Plymouth Walkway at Turnchapel
DAY 32 WEMBURY BEACH TO BIGBURY-ON-SEA 23KM (14 MILES)
Shortly after leaving Wembury, the coast path grinds to a halt at the mouth of the tidal River Yealm. Open a board on the steps leading to a little pier to attract the attention of the ferryman, and remember to close the board once the ferry arrives. Continue walking from the Noss Mayo shore, through Passage Wood. A fine track is joined, the Revelstoke Drive, which was constructed in the 1880s as a carriage drive for Lord Revelstoke. This leads easily around Gara Point and passes solitary Warren Cottage. Pass Revelstoke Park and later rise around the slopes of Beacon Hill, then follow a path across a valley and pass St Anchorite’s Rock. The cliff path eventually reaches the mouth of the tidal River Erme.
There is no ferry across the River Erme, so walkers must turn up at low water, or sit on the shore and wait for the tide to recede. Walking round is possible, but would take a couple of hours. An information board covers all possibilities. Refreshments may be available at Mothecombe. Once across, the coast path seems very remote, and there are some considerable ascents and descents, one after the other, before the village of Bigbury-on-Sea is reached. Burgh Island lies offshore and can be reached at low water, but there is also a curious ‘sea tractor’ that crosses the sands even when the tide is in, serving a hotel on the island. Either stay overnight at Bigbury, or seize the chance to cross the River Avon if the ferry is running.
DAY 33 BIGBURY-ON-SEA TO SALCOMBE 21KM (13 MILES)
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